First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List
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Be sure you installed the correct washer that belongs between the bearing and 
the castle nut. It has a square "tip" on the inner rim of the washer that mates 
with a slot in the spindle. It's a pretty hefty one. If you're putting another 
washer between, be aware that it will be subject to spinning against the castle 
nut - use a good one that's not plated.
 
The only other geometry that would allow the rotor and outer wheel bearing to 
go too far in would be if your wheel bearings are wrong inner diameter or 
height, or the spindles are machined wrong (low probability event). Might want 
to go buy a brand name bearing and mic it. Even better, just put that good ol' 
American bearing in the car!
 
Larry's set-up sequence for torque is good, but the torque number may be too 
high - while spinning the rotor, take the nut to "snug" and then back off one 
slot in the nut. Insert cotter pin. If you have the right washer and the right 
tightness I don't think it hurts to see a little space between the cotter pin 
and the base of the castle slot. (Going from memory, but I may have seen this 
before.) As Larry said, check them after you put a few miles on them - you may 
be able to go in one more notch.
 
I've done drum-to-disk conversions to both of my Pontiacs - it is without a 
doubt the best single mod I have ever done to either car. I used junkyard 
spindles, steering arms and caliper brackets, bought rebuilt calipers and new 
rotors/bearings and hoses from the auto parts store. The master cylinder and 
combination valve I bought from Classic Performance Parts in California - brake 
conversion specialists.
 
Who'd you buy the kit from - sounds like a lame response from their tech people.
 
Regards,
Bob Trimpe
> Date: Wed, 14 May 2008 16:00:43 -0700> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: 
> [FGF] Need help with disc brake installation.......> To: 
> [email protected]> > First Generation Firebird-L Mailing List> 
> .........................................................................> 
> Ed,> > I hope everything is properly greased. Many of these kits are greased 
> as provided, so I expect you are okay there. Still, repack the bearings with 
> a high performance grease while this is all open to you. Spin the rotor as 
> you tighten the castle nut. As the wrench snugs up, you are close. I don't 
> recall the specs off-hand, but it was not much, maybe 20 or 25 pounds on the 
> end of your wrench. Hand-tight. The drum or rotor shoud be turning as you 
> tighten down. An ASME mechanic will correct me soon, lol. Once it's tight, 
> you back off to the next cotter pin spot. New cotter pin every time since 
> this holds your wheels on.> > Back off to the next keyway. Bearings don't 
> need to be tight, but they can't be loose either. If it's off-shore bearings 
> in the kit, I would look for new bearings as a solution if you have problems. 
> > > I've never seen a situation where I was between the castle nut keyways 
> that cause an problem with wheel bearings. I have been over cautious and 
> undertightened with the result of front end vibration. Another adjustment 
> tighter corrected that. > > Larry> > Eddie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:> First 
> Generation Firebird-L Mailing List> 
> .........................................................................> I 
> hope someone can help me. I am coverting my drum brakes to disc on my 67> 
> Firebird. The kit I bought is for my drum brake wheels (JC code). If you> 
> look at the pics I took, the castle nut is only finger tight and it sits way> 
> too far in for me to be able to put the cotter pin in correctly. I called> 
> the company who said they only sell about 30 kits a year and they really> 
> can't help me. So now I'm stuck at this point. Is it possible to add> another 
> washer or 2 to shim it out? Has anyone seen this before? Thanks in> advance 
> for any help you can give me.> > > Eddie Lubinsky> New Tripoli, PA> 
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