Hi Janis

My experience is of film to film-camera and film to digital-video-camera though 
I’d expect video to film would have similar requirements. For both, front 
projection works best. Projector and camera as far from screen as possible to 
produce a projected image of between 12 and 15 inches wide. The camera behind 
projector as far as possible with lens as appropriate.  This reduces parallax 
and hardly any ‘hot-spot’/.  Best to use a paper screen with no texture. With a 
film camera and using tungsten balanced film use an 81A filter (otherwise the 
colour will tend towards cyan), best use a camera with a mirrored shutter and 
variable speed. This is so you can adjust the flicker rate by eye otherwise 
film slightly slower than projection if possible. With a video camera set white 
balance manually and by eye. Adjust shutter speed until flicker is acceptable.

I hope that’s helpful

Best Wishes

Rob

> On 4 Feb 2023, at 15:55, [email protected] wrote:
> 
> Hello 
> 
> I have an experimental music video project which only operates with 
> analogue/optical effects. It was all filmed with digital cameras high iso - 
> so its veeeeery grainy (purposely so, see sample still). Now I would like to 
> perform a final step over: Print it on 16mm (or 35mm film) and then scan it 
> back in 2k or 4k
> 
> There are three ways I imagine this can happen, tho have no previous 
> experience: 
> - 16mm print out and scan back to digital: quite expensive to do, even for 
> 4min. 
> - 35mm print out and scan back to digital: probably cheaper - though maybe 
> the resolution is too good / the grain no present enough. Then again: Maybe 
> this is just the necessary amount of information/sharpness needed to render 
> the digital grain/artefacts clearly
> - Use a Bolex or Krasnogorsk and film the digital master from a screen or 
> projector, develop the film and scan back to digital (?): does this give you 
> adequate quality? I'm especially interested in this technique since its the 
> cheapest but also because i imagine the 'sloppiness' of the bolex/krasnogorsk 
> adds a movement/breathing that could be quite interesting for e.g. the shots 
> that were filmed on a gimbal. 
> 
> Questions: 
> 
> - has any of you experience with filming from a screen / projector? If yes, 
> I'd appreciate some tips regarding technique. 
> - I guess in all the cases above it would make sense to have a digital master 
> that is rather a little more overexposed than underexposed? 
> - ho do overexposures end up on the film negative/scan back? does it get more 
> organic or does it stay rather digital in its aesthetic? 
> 
> I hope I could express myself understandably. 
> 
> Best
> Janis 
> 
> <Screenshot 2023-02-04 at 16.53.21.jpeg>
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