Not so much a response to this post... but to the previous lamp brightness post...
I have a projector that uses a rheostat to up the voltage sent to an ELC lamp. It over drives the lamp voltage, but just slightly, say 24.5-25V. There is a point at which you can push the lamp near the breaking point. If sending too much voltage the lamp will blow... but just a little over 24V and you're increasing brightness without blowing the lamp. If it shortens the lamp life, I haven't noticed it. Not certain how this would work with the on-board transformer of a Eiki SSL or Kodak Pageant or whatever you're wanting to use, but if you have a machine to sacrifice, you might try a rheostat. There is also David's suggestion of the higher output ELC (more lumens), or the suggestion of a 2 blade shutter (if you currently have a three blade), and using a fast lens... most 38mm and wide angle lenses will be f1.5 or slower, but if using an Eiki with an ISCO 35-65, you get f1.3, or if you have a longer throw, a standard, large barrel 50mm lens is usually f1.2 (Eiki, Bell & Howell, etc). Then, as others have mentioned, there is the gain (reflectivity) of the screen, and the darkness of the room. Image size can be another indicator of brightness, one needs to right size the image according to the power/efficiency of the light source available. With xenon lamp houses, a lot of time can be spent aligning/adjusting the lamp and lamp reflector for optimum efficiency... focusing every bit of light on the gate without spillover. Alain On Tue, May 13, 2014 at 11:47 AM, Alex MacKenzie <alexgmacken...@gmail.com>wrote: > I picked up a power converter at at thrift store for $10 called a > Patronics AC/AC Converter. > It has input select 110 vs 220 and says 1500W max with ground lead. > It is a black 7X7X4 inch (18X18X10 cm) brick of a thing, weighs about 25 > pounds. > What I am unclear on, is > A) if it is working correctly, and > B) if this is something I can use overseas in 220V land to run projectors. > Will it take 220V input of power? > > When I plug a conventional desk lamp in (a device I am willing to risk!) > with 60W bulb using 120V power (US/CAN standard) > These are the results: > without converter - standard light output > with converter set to 110V - much much brighter > with converter set to 220V - very dim > I haven’t kept it on for an extended period, but do these results make > sense? > > Of course, I don’t have 220V power handy, so I can’t test the power input > end, though I could maybe try plugging it into a clothes dryer plug (220V) > with a plug converter… > At $10, no big deal if it is just a heavy useless brick, but it seemed > worth looking into. > Thanks to anyone who can shed some light (whatever brightness) on this > situation. > Here is a picture of it: > http://www.alexmackenzie.ca/images/patronics.jpg > > Alex > > > > > _______________________________________________ > FrameWorks mailing list > FrameWorks@jonasmekasfilms.com > https://mailman-mail5.webfaction.com/listinfo/frameworks > > -- 40 FRAMES Alain LeTourneau Pam Minty 40 FRAMES 5232 North Williams Avenue Portland, Oregon 97217 USA +1 503 231 6548 www.40frames.org www.16mmdirectory.org www.emptyquarterfilm.org
_______________________________________________ FrameWorks mailing list FrameWorks@jonasmekasfilms.com https://mailman-mail5.webfaction.com/listinfo/frameworks
