I’ve used InkAid gel medium with cyanotype on clear celluloid with success.
> On Jul 26, 2018, at 5:55 PM, John Davis <0johndav...@gmail.com> wrote: > > I use a similar but slightly different approach and generally get really > solid results that work for me - I do both contact printing with found > footage and/or my own footage, as well as contact printing with plant > material and other light block mediums etc. I have tried the bucket method > for coating, applying with sponges, brushes, etc. and have settled on using > cotton rags. > > 1. Using manufactured (out of date) film that's not been processed I bathe in > non-hardening fixer until clear (this provides you a factory emulsion base > for proper adhesion of solution as opposed to applying your own emulsion - > which can be great, but is a whole different animal) > 2. Rinse fixer as normal and dry > 3. I tape down the film lengths emulsion side up on a clean dry surface on > top of construction paper and apply solution with a cotton rag - applying > just enough to coat the film and avoid excess which leads to flooding > underside of the film (the paper helps absorb excess). Also, I have > experimented with both single and double coatings of solution and my results > were no different in terms of density, etc. > 4. Cut film lengths to length of glass which goes on top of light block > medium and expose to UV light source > 5. Rinse with water until unexposed solution fully clears - rinse repeat. > 6. Dry > > I have tried mixing my own chemistry from scratch, Photog's Forumulary > solution and Bostick and Sullivan solution and like the B&S best for quality > and ease of use. I am interested in the variations that occur with different > application densities, and experiments with solution density etc, but find > the rag method uses the least amount of solution and makes less of a mess in > the long run. > > Exposure times vary depending on light sources. I use the sun and typically > expose anywhere from 15 - 30 minutes depending on time of day and/or time of > year. > > Happy to talk more with anyone curious about my results. > > > >> On Thu, Jul 26, 2018 at 12:22 PM Rhona Eve Clews <rhonaevecl...@gmail.com> >> wrote: >> Have forwarded to an artist I know who did this - hopefully they will reply >> to you directly! >> Rhona >> >>> On 26 Jul 2018, at 20:21, Beebe, Roger W. <beebe...@osu.edu> wrote: >>> >>> Here’s an answer from Ben Wigley to the Labos list in response to a very >>> similar question. (I’m only bouncing this—haven’t tried it myself.) >>> >>> >>> _____ >>> >>> >>> In this book about Anthotypes - >>> https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anthotypes-Explore-darkroom-garden-photographs/dp/1466261005 >>> they apply the emulsion with a brush or a sponge as it applies a much >>> thicker emulsion - to greater effect, than dipping…. >>> perhaps you could try taping to a surface and applying with sponge/brush >>> and then you wouldn’t get it on the back of the film? You could also wait >>> for a coat to dry and apply more? >>> >>> I’m guessing you would need a very long exposure for this technique >>> >>> This is what a friend of mine emailed me when I asked him - not sure if it >>> helps: >>> >>> ' >>> >>> "A gel is required for a carrier if the film is bare plastic: Gelatine, Agar >>> Subcoat with chrome alum hardened gelatine or agar, overcoat with cyanotype >>> in gelatine. There may be an issue with the heat of molten gelatine (agar >>> is worse as it requires a higher temperature) curing off the cyanotype >>> reagent (turning it blue). Cool gelatine to as close to the gelling point >>> as possible before adding cyanotype sensitiser. May need to use a >>> restrainer - few drops of 10% sodium chlorate per 20ml cyanotype reagent - >>> this will also increase contrast, and lower sensitivity. >>> >>> OR you can overcoat the fixed film with gel / cyanotype emulsion >>> >>> If you use fixed out print film - When fixing film do not use a hardening >>> fixer, plain hypo is fine. >>> >>> Under red light soak the fixed, washed in deionised water and dried film in >>> a strong solution of cyanotype ? double strength? with a trace of wetting >>> agent, like Photo flo, >>> >>> Remember the volume of cyanotype solution soaking into the gelatine film >>> layer is minute and will appear to run off the film >>> >>> then drain and dry, remove adhering spots of water on the film surface with >>> a tissue. When dry load film into camera under subdued or red light. >>> Remember cyanotype sensitivity is very low much less than 1ASA, so single >>> shot time exposures will be required for each frame - determine exposure by >>> trial and error. >>> >>> There is still some fine detail I’m not describing, but I’ve never done >>> this on film before.” >>> >>>> On Jul 26, 2018, at 2:45 PM, Devon D <devonimat...@hotmail.com> wrote: >>>> >>>> Howdy Frameworkers, >>>> >>>> Trying to do some cyanotype on film, 16mm & 35mm, having trouble getting >>>> the solution to stick and coat evenly on the film. Anybody have tips? >>>> >>>> Thanks bunches, >>>> Devon Damonte >>>> Olympia, WA >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> FrameWorks mailing list >>>> FrameWorks@jonasmekasfilms.com >>>> https://mailman-mail5.webfaction.com/listinfo/frameworks >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> FrameWorks mailing list >>> FrameWorks@jonasmekasfilms.com >>> https://mailman-mail5.webfaction.com/listinfo/frameworks >> _______________________________________________ >> FrameWorks mailing list >> FrameWorks@jonasmekasfilms.com >> https://mailman-mail5.webfaction.com/listinfo/frameworks > _______________________________________________ > FrameWorks mailing list > FrameWorks@jonasmekasfilms.com > https://mailman-mail5.webfaction.com/listinfo/frameworks
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