I agree that off-the-wall DIY transfers can be quite good, though I’ve mainly 
done 16mm, not S8.

The two main things are: 

1. The camera has to be capable of running at the same frame rate as the 
projector. (e.g. 24fps, for 16mm). You may or may not need the frame sync 
feature in the camera that can fine tune the speed down to a fraction. 

2. The projector must be capable of hoilding its speed steady. This is often an 
issue with S* projectors, especially those with a mechanical variable speed nob.

NOTE: for S8 especially, you aare unlikely to get the camera and projector to 
sync up at the speed the film was shiot at (e.g. if its 18fps as most are, not 
24fps). As long as you can get sync at any speed (e.g. 24fps), you transfer at 
that speed – in effect undercranking the video copy – and then shift it back to 
the proper speed in FCP, AE, or whatever. The frame blending usually isn’t 
noticable to most viewers, and no more a detrement than the old school 
24-into-30 of 5 blade telecines.

As far as physical setup:

> I then shot it onto a movie screen which has high reflectivity, and projected 
> it so the image size was about 1 foot x 1 foot, to make a nice bright image.  

You do want a small bright image, but screem material designed for a larger 
image isn’t necessarily the best projection surface. You want a matte white 
surface with no visible texture. I just got a nice big white paper sheet at an 
art store.

You should set things up in as close to complete darkness as possible. I used 
to do it in my basement after blocking the little windows.

> I had the camera back away from the screen on a longer lens so it was as 
> close to the projector angle as possible.

The problem with that is light bleed from the projector bouncing into the 
camera lens. You want the fromt of the camera lens barrel in front of the 
projector lens barrel. Putting the camera as close as possible to the right 
side of the projector generally eliminates any objectionable keystoning. 
Mounting the camera on a three-way still-photo head makes for easiest 
adjustment of squaring things up. It’s hard to get viideo heads into the right 
horizen plane.


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