I concur with both pieces of advice, particularly having the projector as far back as possible and the camera further back from the projector. I would add that high grade A3 print paper works well as a low-budget screen.
Rob > On 27 Feb 2019, at 13:03, Christopher Ball <[email protected]> wrote: > > I had no problem with light bleed from the projector, and the further > distance meant I could be more in line with the projected image, which helped > with key stoning but more importantly made the light image more even, and I > didn't have a centre hot sport with darker edges. > > Yes, I remember now, I did not use the screen (I was shooting this in my > theatre) I used a new piece of ROSCO 216 diffusion gel, which is even white > and no texture. I had that mounted flat on my screen. > > I was not adjusting the camera speed, I was adjusting the shutter speed. > There are probably very few projectors that run at 24fps or 18fps even, so > matching the fps will be nearly impossible, however if you can adjust the > shutter speed you can eliminated the flicker (but you need extremely fine > shutter speed) adjustment to make it perfect). I would run my film for about > 30 seconds to fine tune the shutter speed, then reverse the image, then run > it forward over the leader for one final check of the shutter speed before > the first image came up. I was able to eliminate the flicker that way. > > C > > On Wed, Feb 27, 2019 at 12:56 AM Dave Tetzlaff <[email protected] > <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote: > I agree that off-the-wall DIY transfers can be quite good, though I’ve mainly > done 16mm, not S8. > > The two main things are: > > 1. The camera has to be capable of running at the same frame rate as the > projector. (e.g. 24fps, for 16mm). You may or may not need the frame sync > feature in the camera that can fine tune the speed down to a fraction. > > 2. The projector must be capable of hoilding its speed steady. This is often > an issue with S* projectors, especially those with a mechanical variable > speed nob. > > NOTE: for S8 especially, you aare unlikely to get the camera and projector to > sync up at the speed the film was shiot at (e.g. if its 18fps as most are, > not 24fps). As long as you can get sync at any speed (e.g. 24fps), you > transfer at that speed – in effect undercranking the video copy – and then > shift it back to the proper speed in FCP, AE, or whatever. The frame blending > usually isn’t noticable to most viewers, and no more a detrement than the old > school 24-into-30 of 5 blade telecines. > > As far as physical setup: > > > I then shot it onto a movie screen which has high reflectivity, and > > projected it so the image size was about 1 foot x 1 foot, to make a nice > > bright image. > > You do want a small bright image, but screem material designed for a larger > image isn’t necessarily the best projection surface. You want a matte white > surface with no visible texture. I just got a nice big white paper sheet at > an art store. > > You should set things up in as close to complete darkness as possible. I used > to do it in my basement after blocking the little windows. > > > I had the camera back away from the screen on a longer lens so it was as > > close to the projector angle as possible. > > The problem with that is light bleed from the projector bouncing into the > camera lens. You want the fromt of the camera lens barrel in front of the > projector lens barrel. Putting the camera as close as possible to the right > side of the projector generally eliminates any objectionable keystoning. > Mounting the camera on a three-way still-photo head makes for easiest > adjustment of squaring things up. It’s hard to get viideo heads into the > right horizen plane. > > > _______________________________________________ > FrameWorks mailing list > [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> > https://mailman-mail5.webfaction.com/listinfo/frameworks > <https://mailman-mail5.webfaction.com/listinfo/frameworks> > _______________________________________________ > FrameWorks mailing list > [email protected] > https://mailman-mail5.webfaction.com/listinfo/frameworks
_______________________________________________ FrameWorks mailing list [email protected] https://mailman-mail5.webfaction.com/listinfo/frameworks
