This was the basis for Tenochtitlan, one of the world’s largest cities that
Cortes destroyed in 1514 in the pursuit of gold.     The world’s largest
city today sits atop the temple of Tenochtitlan but the environmental
balance and the fabulous beauty is gone.    

 

REH

 

 

August 15, 2011

Emerald Cities

By DIANE ACKERMAN

“Wastewater Treatment Plant” may not sound like a scenic destination. But
some ecologically minded towns have been designing a new breed of wildlife
preserve, one that gives recycling a lively twist. Instead of dumping
treated water, they return it to nature as the essence of an ecosystem that
offers food and habitat to animals. Migrating and native birds find a niche,
entangled communities of plants and insects take up residence and a
hodgepodge of wild animals bustles in. 

As a result, city dwellers needn’t travel far for an interlude of wilderness
to refresh their habit-dulled senses and reorient their inner compass.
Strolling, gawking, sitting — at times camera-clicking — humans become one
more changing feature in the perpetual tableau. 

A favorite preserve of mine is the Wakodahatchee Wetlands in suburban Delray
Beach, Fla., (Wakodahatchee means “created waters” in Seminole). On a
boardwalk raised about 10 feet above any hazard, one can watch an alligator
gliding among the bulrushes, fish defending their mud nests from turtles,
ducks and teals dabbling, whiskered otters catching whiskered sail-finned
catfish. 

If you’re lucky, you might see a patch of water fizzing like frying diamonds
in the sun — where a male gator is bellowing in a bass too low for human
ears. You might spot a giant apparition atop a tall evergreen, as an
endangered wood stork displays its distinctive bald head and long curved
beak. 

One-hundred-and-forty species of birds broadcast on every channel at
Wakodahatchee, from a pitying of collared doves to a pandemonium of monk
parakeets. Red-nosed moorhens add trumpeting, clucking and cackling. Pig
frogs loudly grunt like their namesakes. Courting roseate spoonbills play
the castanets of their bills. Red-winged blackbirds spout their buzzwords. 

Black and brown anhingas regularly perch atop lone rocks or dead branches,
still as art-deco statuettes, wings outspread. Unlike many other birds,
their feathers don’t shed water, so they can grow easily waterlogged. Drying
feathers in the sun, the anhingas look like skewed crosses adorning the
marshes. 

What at first seems a flush of algae, or a pointillist mural of sun-flecked
water, is only chartreuse duckweed. This simple aquatic plant floats
everywhere on slower moving waters, offering food to birds, shade to frogs
and fish, and a warm blanket to alligators and small fry. One day it may
also provide a cheap source of protein for humans (it’s already eaten as a
vegetable in parts of Asia) or a cheap fount of biofuel that powers cars
while filtering carbon dioxide from the air. At Wakodahatchee, duckweed
helps to purify the water, and rarely blooms, but when it does, it sprouts
the tiniest flower. 

A similar panorama greets visitors behind fashionable waste treatment plants
around the country. What an admirable trend. Our planet’s web of life is so
fragile that one can’t afford to be a snob about reclaimed land or mind why
a business goes green. 

For instance, pharmaceutical companies — including giants like Merck and
Bristol-Myers Squibb — are engaged in high stakes bio-prospecting in some of
the world’s most endangered rain forests. Working with local shamans, plant
collectors, scientists, and others, they examine seeds, nuts, berries and
bark for potent medicines in an environmental “gene rush.” Mining the
wilderness for new formulae, while leaving it intact, they’ve discovered
that a standing forest is more valuable than a leveled one. 

Another city shade of green comes from derelict railway tracks that have
been reimagined as inviting habitats for plants, animals and humans.
Nationwide, there’s a network of peaceful “rails-to-trails” ideal for
biking, hiking or cross-country skiing. I’ve biked on some beauties in Ohio,
Vermont, Arizona and New York. But the most surprising recycled railway may
be the High Line on Manhattan’s West Side, a self-seeding tapestry of
wildflowers and domestic blooms, undulating benches, nests, perches and
lookouts. It isn’t the first raised park. (There was the Promenade Plantée
in Paris. And remember the hanging gardens of Babylon?) But it’s the
cleverest I’ve found, a dandy way to recycle infrastructure and revive
unused land. Richly detailed and alive, with picturesque vistas, the High
Line stretches one’s gaze — out to city or riverscape and back to blooms or
butterfly, over and over. In the process, the psyche also glides, between
general and personal, blurred and crisply present. Geological in its repose,
it nonetheless allows one to feel elevated in spirit, aloft in a garden in
space where all sorts of organisms mingle. Earth is also a garden in space. 

More than two million people have already sampled the High Line, and other
cities are following suit, inspired to convert crumbling infrastructure into
sky parks of their own. Like the wastewater wetlands, it has widened our
notion of “recycling,” and given New York City yet another bridge — this one
between earth and sky. 

Diane Ackerman, whose recent books are “One Hundred Names for Love” and “The
Zookeeper’s Wife,” is a guest columnist. David Brooks is off today.

 

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