I believe a transfer switch is a requirement per the National Electric
Code if you want to hook up a generator directly the your home mains.
If anyone goes wrong you could be CRIMINALLY LIABLE, not only for
causing a potential electrical fire, but to damage the power grid.

I suggest you consult an electrician from this point on for help.

Also, transfer switches aren't that expensive when you're talking
about electrical equipment to have in a house. They can cost up to
1000 dollars, potentially more, but that's only if you have a large
number of circuits to connect.

http://www.apcc.com/products/family/index.cfm?id=371

On Tue, Nov 2, 2010 at 09:04, ah...clem <[email protected]> wrote:
> we live in a rural area, and power outages occasionally last for
> days.  we have a generator for such situations, and i run all sorts of
> electronics on them.  BUT, you absolutely MUST have a high quality UPS
> on any sensitive electronics, or you risk catastrophic failure.  the
> output of that generator is NOT a clean sine wave, nor is it
> continuously constant voltage or frequency.  a good UPS will correct
> this.  and BECAUSE you are running a mini, which does NOT have a
> regulated power supply like a desktop and only has a simple rectified
> transformer PS, it will be particularly vulnerable.  anyone who says
> otherwise thinks they know a lot more than they actually know.  also,
> how do you plan to connect your computer to the generator?  will you
> put the generator outside and run an extension cord in thru a door or
> window?   generators are quite noisy, and an open window, even a
> crack, will let a lot of cold air in.  if you wire it thru the main
> service entrance of your house, 800 W is certainly not enough to power
> the devices that will come on automatically, like the refrigerator,
> furnace, etc.  when those kick on automatically, they will overload
> the 800 W generator and burn it out.
>
> i suggest that you go the whole 9 yards and get a minimum of 5000 W
> generator, and wire it thru the main service entrance, so you can also
> have heat and refrigeration, etc, during the power outages.  but you
> must arrange it so that you can disconnect from the power grid while
> the generator is connected, otherwise when the power comes back on, it
> will almost certainly be out-of-phase with the generator, and cause
> the generator to fry.  it's not that difficult to do, just add a 50
> Amp dual breaker to the box and wire the output of the generator IN
> thru that breaker, making sure that the MAIN breaker is off, before
> you connect the generator.  you could also spend several thousand
> dollars on a device that does this automatically, but if you can
> understand how to use a computer, you should be able to handle
> throwing a couple of switches in the correct sequence.  then when
> there is a power outage and you disconnect from the grid to run your
> generator, simply phone the power company and request a courtesy call
> to let you know when the power is restored, at which time you will
> first disconnect the generator and then turn the MAIN breaker back on.
>
>
> On Oct 29, 4:44 pm, Cliff Rediger <[email protected]> wrote:
>> We live in a rural area where power outages occur commonly.
>> I just purchased a 800 Rated Watts/900 Max Watts Portable  Chicago
>> Electric Generators
>>
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/800-rated-watts-900-max-watts-portable-g...
>>
>> in hopes of having back up power to run our WiFi ISP antenna,
>> computers and a light or two.
>> But, then I seem recalling that there are possible issues in the type
>> of power a generator provides and the type computers like to receive.
>>
>> Comments and advice appreciated.
>>
>> Cliff
>
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