Dear Kelvin and members.

This may be my first post to this site, I trust you will all not hope it is my 
last.

Engine power output is a complex issue,  factors such as the energy density of 
the fuel, the air/fuel ratio that enters the engine, the volume of air/fuel 
which is able to enter the engine during the induction stroke, and the 
compression pressure reached prior to ignition and the mean pressure reached 
during the combustion stroke are just some of the most important factors.  
Besides the detailed design of intake manifold and exhaust pipes which 
influence how well an engine can breathe.

Where an engine is to be run on wood gas alone, it would be better to do away 
with as many obstructions in the intake manifolds as possible.  The key point 
being to get as much of the gas/air mixture into the engine. This is one reason 
why Diesel engines are good as they only have suck in air, as fuel is added 
internally.  Fuel injected petrol engines come close behind, carburetor models 
are generally more restricted as air passes through the carburetor.

Getting the Air/fuel ratio correct is also vital.  Using a "colortune" 
sparkplug is the best way to really know when you have the correct mixture as 
you can see the flame color within the combustion chamber.

A turbocharger can be used to increase the volume of mixture which is drawn 
into engine but whether or not they are practical given the possibility of 
contaminated gas is something I cannot comment on.

The Mean effective pressure within the engine during the combustion stroke, is 
largely dependent on the length of stroke of the engine, the compression ratio 
and the ignition timing.
The stroke cannot easily be altered but the compression ratio can be changed on 
some engines by machining the cylinder head.
Altering the intake air pressure, using a turbo or other methods. Such as 
cooling the intake air/fuel temperature.
And by changing the ignition timing.
If a petrol (spark ignited) engine is run on wood gas or any other gas, the 
Ignition timing has to be altered.  In general the ignition timing will be 
advanced by several degrees, in order to ensure as high a mean pressure as 
possible is reached during the combustion stroke.
The benefit of using a computer controlled ignition system is that most if not 
all computer controlled systems have a "knock" sensor.  The purpose of this 
device is to sense when the ignition of the fuel has caused the pressure within 
the cylinder to rise so high that the remaining un burnt fuel spontaneously 
explodes.  This results in engine knock, the resulting noise is commonly known 
as "pinking"   Diesel engines knock a lot of the time because the very design 
of the engine is to raise the fuel temperature to point when it spontaneously 
burns.
Older engines that use a Distributor lack the anti-knock feature. Commonly 
distributors have a simple mechanical advise mechanism, to advance the ignition 
as the engine revs faster, and a Vacuum Retard mechanism which aids 
acceleration.  Engines which are subject to varying loads, can benefit from the 
retard mechanism if there is any kind of control valve /butterfly on the 
intake, which would alter the manifold vacuum.

Anyone setting the timing on an engine with a fixed load-speed, needs to be 
sure the advance/retard mechanisms are either working correctly or have been 
locked up. As fixed speed engines can "hunt" if there is any faults in or if 
there is any small changes in the loading or fuel supply.

Tony Batchelor, ex, road transport engineer, now teaching physics. Wellington, 
New Zealand.





-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] 
[mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Kevin
Sent: Monday, 21 February 2011 1:06 p.m.
To: Discussion of biomass pyrolysis and gasification
Subject: Re: [Gasification] ideal wood gas engine

Dear Charles

Your stated need is for "about 20 HP" at 1,800 RPM

You should be able to get about 21.4 HP with an engine of 2500 CC (153 Cubic
Inches), burning about 19 kG/Hr (42 Lbs/Hr)

It would be very helpful if others could comment on the other aspects of an
engine.... in particular, the Ignition system, whether Distributor or
"Computer Controlled", and the implications of using a Fuel Injected engine,
rather than a carburetor engine.

Best wishes,

Kevin

----- Original Message -----
From: <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2011 11:32 AM
Subject: [Gasification] ideal wood gas engine


>
> Content analysis details:   (0.0 points)
>
>  pts rule name              description
> ---- ---------------------- --------------------------------------------------
> _SUMMARY_
>
> Hi All,
>
> I have several engines to chose from here for my next wood gas project.
> Going to go ahead with it and just hope the stink has settled form my
> insurance company ripping hair out of their heads. ( hope they are not on
> here.. bugger )
> Besides this is not a heating device so should not count.
> What out of the junk yard specials would be considered ideal for wood gas
> give I Only need this time to come up with 20 hp at 1,800 rpm?
> I have everything in the shop for a Mike clone.
> Spending a few bucks for the right engine is going to be real cheep just
> now.
> I am not keen on stuck valves through pistons. ( it that ever happens...
> never mind )
>
> Regards all,
> Charles
>
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