Jonathan, The GDAL build that comes with rasterio must have only JP2OpenJPEG enabled (the error with opj_decode() comes from that driver), whereas the GDAL build in QGIS has also JP2ECW, which is used in priority.
The file is large. It would be interesting to know if it is tiled. If you do "gdalinfo --format FILENAME.jp2 --config GDAL_SKIP JP2ECW", and look at the beginning of the output, you should see lines like OPENJPEG: nTileW = XXXX OPENJPEG: nTileH = XXXX which values are reported ? If it is tiled (values <= 2048 let's say), this should normally work. Openjpeg will have more difficulties with single-tile JPEG2000 files, although latest versions (2.3.1) have seen improvements in that regard Even -- Spatialys - Geospatial professional services http://www.spatialys.com
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