I will continue to use both vermiculite and perlite....I am using the
fine grade vermiculite in layboxes, also in incubation. I do think that
the air circulation is compromised in the fine grade vermiculite for
incubation, but is ok for lay boxes since the eggs won't be in there
long. I am, as a result, exposing more of the egg (up to 1/2) in my fine
grade vermiculite incubation set-ups. I am going to try coarse grade
again and see if this is better for incubation only. For layboxes coarse
grade dries out too quick.
My references here are to non-hard calcerous eggs like leopards.
Phelsuma eggs and hard-type eggs should not ever be in the substrate.
This year I have not been using any substrate for Phelsuma eggs, just
putting them on film cap lids and sticking them in a deli cup. As long
as you can put them in a semi-humid environment they do fine.
Perlite is a whole other animal....I tend to bury the eggs in it. You
have to throw out everything you do with vermiculite and treat it
totally differently. I do it more by added water weight vs. keeping the
whole medium evenly moist like vermiculite. It takes practice to find
out what is not too moist, an error you cannot usually fix. In leopards
the eggs will take on a red tone if it is too moist. Err on the dry
side, that is fixable if you catch it soon enough. Leopard eggs should
be nice and white during the incubation process. If they ding in, add
more water to their area and spray them directly. If they mold, Lotrimin
AF works well applied directed after removing the mold.
Julie Bergman
http://www.geckoranch.com
GGA lifetime member
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