cassie schilliger wrote:

> i have read up on both types of the geckos and asked lots of questions about
> the flyers...
> i could set-up a normal tank for flyers or the day gex but i like setting up
> tanks and i was hoping someone could tell me that yes,they would drown even
> with lots of ways to climb out or no they wouldnt drown.

Too many bad things happen with geckos and water, as Lyle has pointed out.

>
>
> day gex need alot of horizontal and verticle(and diagonal) limbs(bamboo is
> great) and lots of plants,uvb and a basking area.

P. dubia is a gluer and very easy to breed. This Phelsuma is not picky about set-up
or temps. Temps in the 80s seem to suit them just fine, and also some bamboo or PVC
pipe to lay their eggs in.

>
> flyers are nocternal so only need florescent for the plants and no basking
> light,especially since they dont require extra heat because there found under
> the forest canopy wich stays cooler(than what people suggest as a temp).both
> drink from misting the tank(off leaves,glass etc).
> they also need lots of branches and sturdy plants because they land and jump
> heavily.
> how much am i missing?
>

Hmm. There is a lot more to it, what they eat, when to feed, substrate,  etc. also
how to pick out healthy specimens.., as Lyle previously said Flyers, P. kuhli, are
usually available only through importers. Not a good bet. P. dubia are available
captive bred for reasonable prices through Phelsuma folks. You did decide these
were not compatible, correct? I would put my money on the P. kuhli to eat the P.
dubia first, they are very aggressive, and have a size advantage on the P. dubia.
P. dubia are pretty aggressive for Phelsuma their size, I don't think they would
mix well with other Phelsuma.  Anyone?

In my personal breeding experience with a gozillion different Phelsuma, I have
noticed the more aggressive ones are bigger out of the egg than similar-sized adult
counterparts. P. klemmeri is the exception, they are pretty big out of the egg but
not real aggressive.

The reason for my comments to choose the gecko first and then design their set-up
was because that is far easier than the reverse. I get people calling me and
visiting my booth at shows constantly asking about what they can put in this 50
gallon they have. I tell them, man, what a lot of work that will be if you are a
beginner. Of course, they were hoping to fill their mini-universe with all sorts of
cool geckos, frogs and turtles that will all magically get along! ;-) Start with
something smaller to make it easier on yourself I say, perhaps a nice 15 long for
some leopards, or a 20+ gallon high for some P. m. grandis. Pick out your gecko
first then we'll go from there.You should always have an extra small tank or
critter cage/shoebox available in case there is an incompatibility problem or
illness anyway

Tanks are cheap if you know where to buy them. Go to the local pet shop and see if
they have any used. Reptile shows often have used tanks and cheaply priced new
ones. There's not a breeder on there that doesn't know how much the plastic
shoeboxes are at the local Target or K-Mart! ;-)

Julie Bergman
http://www.geckoranch.com
GGA lifetime member

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