Hi,
I understand why the cysts should be hard to kill. The oocysts are meant to withstand 
environmental extremes. I have taken it upon myself to use very hot water with 
excessive rinsing (and of course bleach)to clean the containers as much as possible. 
I'm a little worried, not particularly about the quarantine but for re-treating after 
the geckos are moved to their "natural" home. I mean, although the geckos could 
potentially breed, breeding them is not my intention. I just want them to look at in a 
natural home. In fact, I never realised how absolutely beautiful they really are until 
I held them close up to administer the Novotrimel.

Anyway, I am supposed to give the treatment starting as a double dose the first day 
(yesterday) and a regular dose each day after that for an additional 9 days - to each 
gecko. After that I'm supposed to wait 3 weeks then bring in a stool sample for a 
fecal test. I assume the wait period is 2 weeks plus an extra week to collect enough 
stool for a good test.

Something that concerns me is that the vet is an exotics vet who deals mostly with 
birds. I think that's his specialty. When I did some research on Novotrimel it turned 
out that this is a drug used for birds (like non-consumable poultry) or to treat 
bladder infections in people. I assume the vet knows what he's doing but it does make 
me a little uncomfortable. He has seen my other geckos before and I know birds are 
kind of like "feathery reptiles".

I don't understand how I can ever have a natural home for the geckos if I always have 
to worry about this parasite.

Mike

> 
> From: Neil Meister <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: 2004/03/09 Tue AM 12:53:16 EST
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [gecko]quarantine U. ebenaui (update)
> 
> Hi Mike,
> 
> A sulfa drug makes sense. Just curious, how often are you supposed to 
> treat the geckos?
> Coccidia often comes back after short treatments with Albon. Some 
> species can apparently
> encyst in the intestinal wall and reappear down the road. It's not 
> usually fatal of itself,
> but with delicate gex it's just one more straw on the camel's back. 
> I've brought back animals
> that looked simply awful and others with low levels of coccidia and 
> in good health can sometimes
> be acclimated without treatment. Since you've had vomiting, it's 
> definitely worth medicating.
> 
> Normally wild geckos don't constantly come in contact with their own waste, the
> coccidia don't get out of control. In shipping, warehousing and the 
> terrarium they can be
> repeatedly  exposed to oocysts (sort of an "egg"). The oocysts can 
> remain in the
> environment for long periods, so the cleaning is really important to 
> prevent another
> outbreak. Very high heat is supposed to kill coccidia, kind of hard 
> on geckos and plastic
> vivaria though ; )
> 
> Neil
> 
> 
> 
> 
> >Thanks, Julie and Neil. Well from a web search it seems Novotrimel 
> >contains sulfamethoxazole. The geckos don't appear to have runny 
> >stool. Their stool actually seems to have been hardening up in the 
> >past week so I suppose that is a good sign. I do have them 
> >alternating between two Tupperware containers as you said. I am also 
> >using short lengths of PVC pipe as shelters because these are easy 
> >to clean and the bathroom rolls are really messy when they get wet. 
> >I just soak them in the bleach solution in the containers.
> >
> >Well, Neil, your prognosis sounds grim if even bleach can't kill it 
> ><insert worry here>. I suppose if it's a common bug the geckos 
> >should turn out all right. And as Julie said, it hasn't killed her 
> >lizards so I hope it won't kill mine. So am I to assume that the 
> >geckos' immune systems themselves can kill the parasites, or is this 
> >just a bug that they will always live with and will recur if the 
> >geckos are stressed? I think keeping them in a Tupperware box seems 
> >really stressful in itself  ;o)
> >
> >I will keep you updated.
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>Neil A. Meister
> >To: <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 2:46 PM
> >Subject: Re: [gecko]quarantine U. ebenaui (update)
> >
> >Hi Mike,
> >
> >This very common, especially in wc Uroplatus. Some animals never 
> >show symptoms,
> >other have runny stool, become lethargic and waste away. The level 
> >of coccidia and stress
> >are two important factors.
> >
> >Strict hygiene is important. I use only disposable materials in the 
> >cage and clean completely
> >daily. Having two cages so you can move the geckos into one and 
> >clean the other is a good idea.
> >I haven't found anything gecko-safe that can kill the oocysts (even 
> >bleach doesn't work), so
> >thorough cleaning and rinsing is the best you can do. Be  careful so 
> >to spread it to any other
> >herps you may have.
> >
> >I'm not familiar with Novotrimel, do you know the active ingredients 
> >are. Do any vets on the
> >list use it? I've used Albon (sulfadimethoxine) many times for this. 
> >Treatment was anywhere
> >from 9 to 12 days. Even if coccidia wasn't eliminated, it was 
> >greatly reduced and most animals
> >recovered.
> >
> >Good luck,
> >Neil
> >
> >>I took the geckos into the vet on Friday and the vet said they 
> >>looked good. They've been eating as well (with no vomiting) so I 
> >>was quite happy. I got the call today that the fecal test test 
> >>results came back and my geckos have Eimeria spp. oocysts 
> >>(coccidia) so now I have to medicate them. Poor things. The drug is 
> >>Novotrimel. He wants to see another fecal 3 weeks from the end of 
> >>the medication. I suppose this means I'll have to throw away all my 
> >>fancy plants that I was using for the vivarium. But I wouldn't want 
> >>to risk reinfection.
> >>
> >
> >
> >Anyway, that's the update. I'm not really sure what coccidia does to 
> >geckos but it seems to be a bad thing in poultry livestock.
> >
> >
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >
> >From: <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>Neil A. Meister
> >
> >To: <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> >Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 10:10 AM
> >
> >Subject: Re: [gecko]how do I quarantine LTC U. ebenaui
> >
> >
> >Hi Mike,
> >
> >
> >Quarantine for LTC is the same as for WC. It is definitely worth 
> >finding out what the problem
> >
> >is before treating as the wrong meds will do no good and stress a 
> >weakened animal.
> >
> >How long is LTC in this case?
> >
> >
> >What you're seeing is not uncommon. I suspect protozoa of some sort, 
> >coccidia is the most common
> >
> >problem. If your gecko is vomiting, it does need help. Keep 
> >collecting fecal samples in case
> >
> >the first one is negative. Repeat fecals at least 3 times if 
> >negative to be sure nothing
> >
> >is missed. One negative only means there was nothing found in that 
> >particular sample,
> >
> >no that the gecko is free of parasites.
> >
> >
> >your temperatures are a little cool. 60's is good for night, but a 
> >few degrees warmer (72-76)
> >
> >is better for day temps. A weak basking light placed over a cork 
> >tube or similar hide spot
> >
> >should work in your situation.
> >
> >
> >I quarantine small Uros in critter keepers or tall rubbermaids that 
> >are easily washed and rinsed.
> >
> >Bedding is paper towel (brown if you can get it) with a few bits of 
> >dried leaves or moss
> >
> >on top. Add a few climbing branches and a papertowel tube for 
> >hiding. Clean out feces daily.
> >
> >If you find parasites, cleaning will have to be more rigorous. 
> >Having two similar cages set up
> >
> >so you can move the geckos to a clean one while disinfecting the 
> >other is a good idea.
> >
> >
> >Mist 2-3 times per day and cover part of the lid with a piece of 
> >plastic to keep in humidity
> >
> >if required.
> >
> >
> >Do not use vermiculite for a substrate. It could be ingested when 
> >the geckos lunge at prey.
> >
> >
> >I'm not crazy about using more than one med at a time. I like to use 
> >one, wait a few days, then use
> >
> >the other if more than one is necessary. Definitely get a vet 
> >opinion if you have to medicate.
> >
> >
> >Good luck,
> >
> >Neil
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>Let me first apologize if this is long-winded.
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >Late last week I picked up a pair of LTC Uroplatus. After reading 
> >about care of recent imports I got the general idea that people 
> >didn't like to medicate their geckos for no reason and since I 
> >didn't have a fecal sample I wasn't in a rush to call the vet for 
> >debugging meds.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >The evening after I brought them home they ate. The evening after 
> >that, they ate again. This was obviously a good sign but the 
> >crickets I was feeding them, although appearing small when I put 
> >them in the enclosure, were sort of big for the geckos (1/2-3/4" 
> >crix, 4" geckos). It's been 3 days since they ate but they still go 
> >into hunting pose when they see crickets. They just don't strike.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Today I found two crickets vomited up (2 crickets in the same vomit 
> >so from one gecko). The other gecko passed feces and I collected 
> >this for the vet for tomorrow <crosses fingers that he's there>. I 
> >took both geckos out of the enclosure and let them walk on my hands 
> >so I could examine them. The male looks decent enough but the female 
> >seems "ribby"; not tremendously, but ribby nonetheless. Her pelvis 
> >seems boney, too. She was the one that vomited. They jump around 
> >from hand to hand, though.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >I might also mention that the temperature in the enclosure is mid to 
> >high 60's. I don't know if this is a problem. A friend suggested I 
> >use a small red bulb to bring the heat up to the low 70's but I'm 
> >afraid to try that. I also thought about a low temperature heat tape 
> >but that also scares me a bit :o) Come summer, I know the 
> >temperature will be perfect.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >SO, I now want to quarantine these geckos in a "sterile" environment 
> >so I can closely monitor them and collect clean fecal samples if I 
> >need to. What I would like to know is, how can I create such an 
> >environment? Sterile enclosures are generally dry, IME. Would 
> >something like moist vermiculite be a good bedding with a few 
> >plastic branches for the geckos to climp on? How do other Uroplatus 
> >keepers quarantine their animals?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Thank for any help or suggestions. I'll suggest Flagyl and Panacur 
> >to the vet for a debugging regimen and see what he says. That seems 
> >to be the general method.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >
> >
> >--
> >
> >Neil Meister
> >
> >Promotions Secretary
> >Global Gecko Association
> >
> >http://www.gekkota.com
> >
> >http://www.gekkota.com/html/gecko_night_2002.html
> >
> >President
> >Nova Scotia Herpetoculture Society
> >
> >http://users.eastlink.ca/~nshs
> >
> >
> >
> >--
> >Neil Meister
> >
> >Promotions Secretary
> >Global Gecko Association
> >http://www.gekkota.com
> >http://www.gekkota.com/html/gecko_night_2002.html
> >
> >President
> >Nova Scotia Herpetoculture Society
> >http://users.eastlink.ca/~nshs
> 
> 
> -- 
> Neil Meister
> Semaphor Design Company Inc.
> 6450 Young Street, Suite 4
> Halifax, NS  B3L 2A3
> Canada
> 902.455.0133 ext 4
> 
> 

1

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