> DJ, are you talking laminating photo-etch-resist film to the copper > laminate,
The photosensitive film is laminated to the bare copper, producing a "negative" sensitive board. The printed mask is just laid on top of that, then a sheet of glass to hold it against the board. Normally you'd use a vaccuum system to hold it against the board, but balancing a piece of glass on it works for me. > imagining using liquid emulsion of some kind, but film photomask > like the PCB makers use would be good too... You can buy pre-sensitized boards, too. They tend to be positives, though. Those are made from liquid emulsions. I use film because it's hard to get a consistent thickness of emulsion at home. For positive boards, you print your mask the same way you'd print for toner transfer - ink where you want copper. For negative boards (like mine), you put ink where you want the copper *removed*. The UV hardens the film, so anything clear in the mask remains in the film. > PS have you tried laser printer photomask film ,(artwork), such as > Kimodesk? My toner doesn't block enough UV - only three steps. Plus, the inkjet is much more precise and accurate. _______________________________________________ geda-dev mailing list [email protected] http://www.seul.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/geda-dev
