https://www.insideindonesia.org/wake-up-flood


Wake up! Flood!Written by ROANNE VAN VOORST  Print
<https://www.insideindonesia.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=3515:wake-up-flood&catid=234&Itemid=129&tmpl=component&print=1&layout=default&page=>

Bunga Sirait @Flickr
Category:Edition 136: Apr-Jun 2019
<https://www.insideindonesia.org/edition-136-apr-jun-2019>
Published:May 22, 2019
Tagged under

   - Java <https://www.insideindonesia.org/topics/14-java/tag>
   - Urban Indonesia
   <https://www.insideindonesia.org/topics/77-urban-indonesia/tag>
   - Natural Disasters
   <https://www.insideindonesia.org/topics/99-natural-disasters/tag>

Roanne van Voorst

In Bantaran Kali, owning a walkie-talkie is a symbol of high status. This
is because the device can be used to collect information about possible
floods in the neighbourhood. There is no formal warning system along the
river banks. A few years ago, the government did pay for a loud speaker
that was placed on the roof of the mosque, which was intended to sound the
alarm if there was a flood coming. However, it turned out that the speaker
was not waterproof, so during the next flood it broke down and has not been
replaced.

But with a walkie-talkie, residents can communicate with the lock keepers
who are located high in the hills above Jakarta. If the water there rises
quickly there is a good chance that Bantaran Kali will be flooded a few
hours later. Walkie-talkie owners use that information to bring their own
belongings and family members to safety as quickly as possible; then they
warn their neighbours.

In the middle of one night, after I had been living in Bantaran Kali for
about two weeks, there was a loud banging on my door. I woke up startled
and sat bolt upright. ‘Roanne,’ a man behind the door shouted. ‘Wake up,
prepare, a flood is coming!’

My heart started to thump. I looked around in panic. A flood. That was to
be expected, after all I had come here for that. And yet I had not thought
at all about an emergency plan. I had no idea what to do, where to escape
to. Until this moment I had been far too busy getting used to my new life
in Bantaran Kali.

In addition, I always felt protected by the experience and knowledge of
Aki. When I moved into the house, she actually still lived in the house,
but she assured me she would move out soon.

‘Tomorrow,’ she said, ‘tomorrow I will have a new house, and you can live
here alone.’

That turned out to be too optimistic, but after thirteen days busily
getting organised the time had come. Aki would move upstairs, and I would
be able to enjoy the privacy of my own house. I helped Aki empty the
cupboard of her belongings, and brought them upstairs with her. Her
television set hardly fitted – her new house was even smaller and more
cramped than mine. At least I still had a corrugated iron roof that kept
out the daily tropical rain; Aki only had an orange canvas sheet above her
head in her new home.

‘But this is a better house than yours,’ Aki said when she saw that I was
staring at her roofing with a somewhat worried expression. ‘I told you once
before, and I’ll tell you again: just wait until it floods. Then you’ll
regret the fact that you live in the fancy house on the ground floor, and
you’ll be only too happy to come and camp under my roof.’

She would be right, and that happened rather quickly. On the first night I
spent alone in my new house, I was awoken, not by Aki, but by loud banging
on the front door.

BANG! BANG! BANG! ‘Roanne?’

I opened the mosquito net that I had hung up from the ceiling earlier that
day – not to protect me from malaria or dengue, because the mosquitoes
managed to find me anyway during the day, but to provide a reassuring
shield between me and the many thumb-sized cockroaches. As quickly as I
could, I put on a T-shirt and shorts and tried to decide what to take with
me. My notebook with my notes, my laptop with my data, my camera. ‘Wallet,
passport,’ I muttered out loud while filling a backpack with my most
valuable belongings. Almost everything I had with me turned out to fit. I
left only a few study books. Too heavy, I thought, not I good idea if I
need to move quickly.

‘Roanne?’ – this time it was a woman's voice. Aki did not wait for an
answer, but had already swung open my front door. A locked door was out of
the question – privacy was less important in Bantaran Kali than it was for
me. Aki came in in her white nightgown. ‘The mattress must be lifted up,’
she said.

Earlier she had explained to me that she would hang her mattress from the
ceiling during flooding. There were four screws in the ceiling for doing
that, one of which I had used to hang up my mosquito net.

‘What is that you have hanging up there?’ Aki asked when she saw my
mosquito net. She looked at it with a scowling face. ‘Do Dutch people think
that is nice? We would rather hang paintings if we want to decorate our
houses.’ She yawned deeply and gestured toward my toilet. ‘Pee first, then
cook, then eat, then hang up the mattress,’ she instructed me.

‘And the rest of the stuff?’ I asked, ‘Shouldn't we evacuate right away? Is
the water already outside?’

Aki emptied a bucket into the toilet bowl. She sleepily shook her head and
began to wrap a cloth around my head. ‘Oh no,’ she said. ‘We still have
time. The flood water will be here in five and a half hours. And it's a big
one, so keep in mind that it will be flooded here for at least a week. Did
they just tell you that? The men with the walkie-talkies? They always know
everything.’ She tucked the last strand of hair behind my headscarf and
scooped rice grains from a hessian bag into a measuring cup. ‘They know
even the smallest details. They are a sort of flood soothsayer, and
therefore they are the most important inhabitants of Bantaran Kali. More
important than the kampung leader, more important than the village elders
and certainly more important than that nonsense of a husband of mine. The
men with the walkie-talkies know exactly when the river will overflow its
banks and how long the water will stay and give us wet feet. Or rather:
give *you* wet feet.’ Aki poured the rice from the measuring cup into a
rice cooker and looked at me triumphantly. ‘Unless you come to shelter with
me tonight and in the coming nights.’ She burst out laughing, throwing her
head back.
Banjir Jakarta / Hendrawan A Setyawan @Flickr

No wonder Yusuf wanted to spend so much money on a walkie-talkie. He was
the ninth resident in the neighbourhood to own one. The first proud owner –
the then neighbourhood head – did not buy it himself, but got it from an
official at the village administration. Along with the loudspeaker, which
had been placed on top of the mosque, the walkie-talkie would serve as a
flood warning system. ‘It took me weeks to understand how that device
worked,’ the former neighbourhood leader told me later in an interview.
‘The official gave me an instruction manual, but I never went to school and
can't read. I turned the knobs until I could hear voices amongst all the
noise – then I could finally hear what the lock keepers were saying.. But
the reception was usually poor, and often I couldn’t understand what they
were saying, so I just turned off the thing and set it aside.’

That was in the year 2000. Two years later, a huge flood came through the
neighbourhood, and both the walkie-talkie and the speaker got wrecked. The
neighbourhood head had not received a warning from the lock keepers; the
reception had been so bad the day before that he had switched off the
walkie-talkie again.

After that major flooding, government policy changed. There was a decision
not to invest in warning systems for the flood-prone, illegal
neighbourhoods along the river banks. Those areas were actually not
intended for residential use at all, it was decided. According to the 2005
to 2030 Jakarta city plan, the riverbeds must remain empty, though
vegetation may be grown there. So people just had to fend for themselves.

This is an extract from Roanne van Voorst’s book, De Beste Plek ter Wereld:
Leven in de Sloppen van Jakarta
<https://www.bol.com/nl/p/de-beste-plek-ter-wereld/9200000053066112/> [*T**he
Best Place in the World: Living in the Slums of Jakarta*] (Amsterdam:
Brandt, 2016). Translation by Helene van Klinken.

Also available in Indonesian as *Tempat Terbaik di Dunia: Pengalaman
Seorang Antropolog Tinggal di Kawasan Kumuh Jakarta *(Tangerang Selatan:
Marjin Kiri, 2018).
<http://marjinkiri.com/product/tempat-terbaik-di-dunia-pengalaman-seorang-antropolog-tinggal-di-kawasan-kumuh-jakarta/>

*Roanne van Voorst ([email protected] <[email protected]>) is
a postdoctoral researcher in the Netherlands. This book drew on her
ethnographic research about poor people´s responses to flooding, ‘Get ready
for the flood! Risk-handling styles in Jakarta, Indonesia.’ (PhD,
University of Amsterdam, 2014).*

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