https://www.heraldgoa.in/Cafe/Whose-Art-is-it-Anyway/215270

An unprecedented bonanza of free, easily accessible and seriously good
exhibitions in the state capital provide another reminder that Goa has
everything to be an important international cultural centre, except
responsible governance and competent heritage management. This is art
amidst the wreckage, with busted-up pavements in half-abandoned roadworks,
and omnipresent visual pollution from the repellent casinos. Do not look
away, however. There is plenty to make you think between the extraordinary
cornucopia of Serendipity Arts Festival and what’s on display at the
Fundação Oriente in Fontainhas, with Angela Ferrão’s biting social
commentary just down the road at Gallery Gitanjali as well as
*this.generation* at Sunaparanta in Altinho, which its curator Srinivas
Mangipudi describes as “an exhibition of code-based practices.”

One of the ways this moment is interesting is how these exhibitions exist
in almost parallel worlds on the same tiny stretch of the Mandovi
riverfront. It’s a tribute to all the organizers that everything fits
together city-wide, in genuinely complementary fashion. But there are also
more fundamental questions that apply to what happens in these same
locations the rest of the year: what is meaningful public art in an urban
environment that is increasingly hostile to the public, and where the space
for free expression shrinks further year after year? And what about the
state’s responsibilities towards Goa’s heritage – how can it be in 2023
there is still no public museum, no permanent collection, no way for young
artists to experience the physical presence of even one great painting from
the likes of Vasudeo Gaitonde and Francis Newton Souza?

These are vexing questions, with only a few obvious answers, but their
lingering impress is why the exhibition of the Fundação Oriente Visual Arts
Award 2023 makes such interesting viewing. You can see the work of very
young artists right next to superb 100-year-old portraits by António Xavier
Trindade (1870-1935), the pioneer of the Bombay School and “Rembrandt of
the East.” This son of Sanguem, the father of five notoriously feisty and
independent daughters, possessed an unusual capacity to depict
turn-of-the-20th century Indian women with empathy and agency. It’s
marvellous to turn from his 1925 masterpiece *Miss Ferns – A Writer* to
Ramona Dias’s equally compelling *Self-Portrait with Flowers* (2021), which
the painter tells us is about “the question of what comes next in the
creative journey.”

Fundação Oriente is headquartered in Portugal – the once and forever bête
noire of an extremist fringe in Goa despite stellar relations between New
Delhi and Lisbon – but there can be no doubt about its outstanding support
to many different aspects of culture in India’s smallest state. The current
exhibition is an excellent example: 120 artworks were entered into
competition for this popular annual prize, mostly home-grown talent that
has no other outlet. Many works here strike deep chords: Satyam Vivek
Malhar’s haunting nightscape *Rakhandar-I*, Sanayvi Naik’s anguished *No
Man’s Land *(based on a traumatic incident when the artist’s beloved pet
dog was callously shot) and Rajaram Naik’s stunning ganjifa-style game
board based on the life of Dashavatar performer Bunty Kambli.

Meanwhile, up at Altinho, the best-ever Sunaparanta annual exhibition
testifies that beautifully located arts centre has hit its stride and
maximising the potential it always possessed. *this.generation* is both
super-interesting and still developing, with activities, performances and
other offshoots planned throughout the next four months. There are some
intriguing artworks included, including the first-ever physical
representation of the algorithmic *Every Icon *by John Simon Jr, and very
beautiful hand drawings by Sidharth Gosavi that enliven one of the side
rooms. Centrepiece is *Climate Recipes*, co-curated by Mangipudi and
Srinivas Aditya Mopidevi, one of the best recent art projects we have seen
in Goa, which manages to speak directly to our moment. I liked how Isheta
Salgaocar – who now helms Sunaparanta’s impressive all-woman team - put it
in the lovely little book published alongside: “[the curators] have begun a
movement collecting an archive of wisdom…It is a new beginning that will
continue to evolve and regenerate as we seek knowledge, answers and hope on
the future of humanity.”

*Climate Recipes* is what we want and need from art and artists at this
fraught juncture. This is rich engagement with crucial questions, but more
signal and less noise. The curators explain that “we set out on a research
expedition in Goa to gather what we referred to as climate recipes. The
form of the recipe spoke to us since it felt like an intimate, everyday
instruction that held the potential to improvise and generate new
knowledge. After conversations with environmentalists, foragers, academic,
urban planners, eco-architects, chefs, farmers, and others, we collated
recipes from their lived experiences of the environment. These recipes are
entry points for an adaptable life suggesting different forms of creating,
listening, cooking, grieving, training, building and loving.”

The multiplicity of voices and viewpoints in *Climate Recipes* gives the
project shape-shifting universality, and precisely that characteristic –
but scaled up to mind-boggling – makes Serendipity one of the most
impressive displays of Indian soft power anywhere. This year there are 10
curators – look out especially for Thomas Zacharias in Culinary Arts,
Quasar Thakore Padamsee in Theatre, and Anjana Somany and Sandeep Sanguru
in Craft – plus another 60 odd special projects and collaborations in a
dozen different venues from Samba Square to the Santa Monica Jetty, in the
newly renovated Old PWD building and the recently reopened Kala Academy.
According to its press release earlier this week, “the festival is
supported by the Government of Goa, the Corporation of The City of Panaji,
the Directorate of Art and Culture, Goa, the Entertainment Society of Goa,
the Goa Tourism Department, Panaji Smart City and the Goa Forest
Department.”

Everyone will have an individual approach and appreciation of Serendipity,
because the scale, size and ambition of the festival allows it to be many
things to different people. For my part, I am looking forward to *Postcards
from Goa*, “a commissioned production directed by Vikram Phukan, that seeks
to excavate stories that contextualize the queer experience in Goa. and
retrofit it to locations in Panjim, along a scenic and culturally resonant
walking trail” and also *Synaesthetic Notations* curated by Veerangana
Solanki, which “explores the image as an arrival and departure point with
sound as the crux of the experience of reading/deciphering images.” There’s
also the sheer pleasure – and serendipity, certainly – of lingering in
places made user-friendly by the festival, where you can relax to enjoy the
city in ways that are impossible the rest of the year.

That, of course, brings us back to those troublesome fundamental questions.
Why is it impossible to enjoy the city in these same ways the rest of the
year? What happens to state support – and public appetite – for the arts in
all the remaining months? Whose interests are served by this pattern, and
who is left out? In this regard, Angela Ferrão’s bracing and caustic
exhibition of illustrations at Gallery Gitanjali is an essential
antithesis. *The Univited* is rooted in the native experience of Tourism
Goa, “rich and complex and resilient” in ways that do not compute at all
with the reckonings of most visitors. Those ideas are also central to the
terrific little comic book that Ferrão co-authored with graphic designer
Maria Vanessa de Sa and US-based professor R. Benedito Ferrão (no relation
to the artist), *The Uninvited: Goa and the Parties not Meant for its
People.*

You get the gist in the title itself. With catastrophic effect to Goa’s
environment, culture and society, the state is perverted wholescale “for
the purpose of entertainment for others.” In an interview with the news
site at his university (it’s William & Mary in Virginia), Prof Ferrão
explained that “there are many art festivals in Goa, but they rarely
feature the work of Goan artists. There is no state repository of Goan art
in Goa, so one cannot go to an art museum in Goa of Goan art. You could go
to a local gallery, or you could go to a one-off exhibition, but there
really is no sense of Goan art history. Angela’s work is important in its
own right, but it’s also part of a longer tradition amongst Goan artists.
And I think having an exhibition is good, but having a printed publication
is also very important, because that then works as a more permanent record.”

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