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www.navhindtimes.com dated February 15, 2003

Cheers and Tears: Life in Little Palacios of Goa

By Gasper D'souza

"Surely, you do not expect me to live in and maintain this
mammoth, old structure that goes by the name of ancestral home? I
have my career ahead of me to pursue and I have neither the time
nor money to waste on this dead horse!"

This may be a typical outburst of a coming-of-age son before his
parents. After all, the times are a-changing and the problems of
upkeep of these old-style homes can be very intimidating, indeed.

For a moment, we might think the son is right. Until we begin to
look deeper and see things in a clearer perspective.

The first thing to note about old Goan houses is the creativity
of the Goan mind - the fusion of 18th and 19th century European
styles with local ideas and motifs and materials. They say the
culture of a society is reflected through its art forms. While
some societies may have expressed themselves through their
literature, paintings or sculptures, Goan architecture has
reflected its universal experience in its mansions and houses.

>From the imposing gateposts to the large balcaos - a buffer
between the house and the public domain, the verandas - a feature
added only in the early 20th century, windows traditionally made
of oyster shells and later of glass and yes, doors wide enough
for a horse and in some cases even elephants to pass through with
ease, traditional Goan homes have varied facets.

It is indeed fascinating to uncover the various influences that
went into the making of the homes we live in today, sometimes
without even a second thought. But, what is even more fascinating
is the lives of those who reside in these 'palacios' of the past.

The coastal villages of Calangute and Candolim boast of a large
number of old-style heritage houses. Standing almost serenely,
more than 500 years after it was built, is the Proenca House
tucked away near the busy Calangute market junction. It is not
easy to miss this two-storied house, painted a bright yellow and
rust. With its Hindu-style inner courtyard, this house pre-dates
the Portuguese invasion. Magnificent frescos still adorn the
walls of the first floor landing. There is even undocumented
belief that the warrior-king Shivaji once stayed at this house.
The well-maintained voluptuous furniture is a testament of the
history living within the regal rooms and the current inmates, Dr
Alex Porenca and his three brothers.

If history oozes out of the Proenca House, the 200-year old Casa
Voiz Alex in is an imposing structure, along the
Calangute-Candolim main road and a regular in films and books.
Its current owner, Ms ___ Gomes is a fine example of a gritty old
lady who, single-handedly, spares no means to see to it that her
home still reflects the glory days of its past.

The house used to receive a stream of tourists including those
from the nearby Taj Aguada. However, being alone in the huge
mansion, Ms Gomes has now stopped the practice, following a
robbery that resulted in the loss of an exquisite ivory
statuette. In true blue-blooded nature, the good lady shows great
pride in owning the magnificent structure. She speaks of the time
when a foreign tourist, awed by its magnificence, recreated the
structure in oil paint, presenting her with a copy. "Never leave
a room closed," she warns. "That would spell the doom of the
house." In the absence of sunlight, termites hold sway over the
antique wood, she explains.

Living in the busy state capital, surprisingly, can also be a
thrill as Mr Wali de Lima Fernandes learnt. Originally from
Charao, he moved into his present two-storied home in the quaint
Latin quarter of Fontainhas in Panaji before his schooling days.
Now, he possesses an almost living bond with the house and one
can see the pride in his eyes as he speaks of his ancestral home
two rooms of which were used to exhibit paintings of prominent
Indian artists during the recently held Fontainhas Festival of
Arts.

...the complete story at
http://www.navhindtimes.com/stories.php?part=mag&Story_ID=021583.



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