http://www.metrowestdailynews.com/foodDining/view.bg?articleid=95730
Kitchen detective: Chicken vindaloo is great at home
By Christopher Kimball
Wednesday, April 13, 2005
Vindaloo is a signature dish of the longtime Portuguese stronghold Goa
so it is a hybrid dish, part Indian and part Portuguese. Simply put,
vindaloo is chicken marinated in a mixture of vinegar and spices.
Unlike many authentic Indian dishes, vindaloo is a practical, slightly
exotic choice for the home cook.
After a half dozen recipe tests, we found that they all have a
deeply spiced base and bright flavor from vinegar. But, that was about
it for common ground. So, we started testing with the chicken.
Although we are often partial to thighs, we slightly preferred
using boneless chicken cut into large cubes. Dark meat was good
(optional in the recipe) but the boneless cubed meat absorbed a bit
more flavor. We used roughly 1 3/4 pounds of meat (about four breasts)
that was cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces.
All of the vindaloo recipes included onion. Some recipes ground
the onion into the spice paste. We tried the vindaloo both ways and
preferred to slice and brown them rather than puree and marinate with
them. We used one medium onion that was quartered and then thinly
sliced. We cooked the onion until it was very soft and golden brown
around the edges; the sweet caramelized flavor worked nicely with the
tang of the vinegar.
We used about1/2-inch grated ginger, which is two teaspoons, and
added it to the pan once the onions were browned. Four medium cloves
of garlic were also added to the onion; we found that pressing them
worked just fine.
Most Indian recipes use either oil or ghee (a clarified butter)
but we settled on regular unsalted butter. It added a nice flavor and
a touch of richness.
Vinegar is part of the name of this dish (VIN-da-loo) and its
flavor should be somewhat recognizable. We tried wine and cider
vinegar but in the end we preferred, much to our surprise, the plain
old distilled white vinegar. We needed about1/3 cup to best flavor the
dish. We found by adding a small amount to the chicken before being
rubbed with the spice paste, the vinegar flavor was better presented
in the finished dish.
Coriander seeds were a welcome addition to our spice paste and 1
1/2 teaspoons married well with the vinegar. We also added a teaspoon
of cumin seeds, skipped the garam masala spice blend, one teaspoon
cardamom seeds, six whole cloves, a half teaspoon of turmeric and a
1-inch length of cinnamon.
As for heat, vindaloo can be fiery hot or relatively mild.
Preferring it on the milder side, we used sweet paprika (2 teaspoons)
along with a bit of cayenne ( 1/4 teaspoon). We opted out of fresh
chilies due to their uneven qualities. Salt, sugar and black pepper
finished up the spices.
As with many authentic Indian dishes, we found that water was the
liquid of choice since it results in a cleaner, brighter flavor. We
needed about a cup of water to braise the chicken which, along with
the spice rub and the aromatics, reduced to a full-bodied sauce. One
last ingredient was a large russet potato cut into 1-inch dice.
As stated in the opening paragraph, the dish actually goes
together quickly and simply. First you put together the spice rub.
Next you toss the chicken with a bit of the vinegar and then the rub.
The chicken sits for about 20 to 30 minutes while you prepare the
aromatics. The onion is well softened and browned. The garlic and
ginger are added and sauteed briefly. Finally the chicken, potato,
remaining vinegar and water are tossed in the pot where they simmer
together for about 25 minutes. The dish is made in one pot, ready in
less than an hour and very satisfying.
CHICKEN VINDALOO
Vindaloo is very good served over basmati rice. The flavor is
improved by an overnight rest in the refrigerator, so feel free to
make it a day ahead. To reheat, simply bring up to a simmer over
medium-low heat until the chicken and potato is heated through.
INGREDIENTS:
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1-inch length of cinnamon stick
6 whole cloves
1 1/2 teaspoons coriander seeds
1 teaspoon cardamom seeds
2 teaspoons sweet paprika or chile powder of your choice
1/4 teaspoon cayenne or to taste
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
1 3/4 pounds boneless chicken thighs (about 8) or breasts (about
4) cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
1/3 cup white vinegar
1 tablespoon butter
1 medium onion, peeled, quartered pole to pole and thinly sliced
1/2-inch piece ginger, grated, about 2 teaspoons
4 garlic cloves, pressed or minced
1 large russet potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
DIRECTIONS:
Place the cumin seeds, peppercorns, cinnamon stick, cloves,
coriander seeds and cardamom seeds in a spice grinder or mortar and
pestle and grind to a fine powder. Stir together in a small bowl with
the paprika, cayenne, salt, sugar and turmeric. Place the chicken in a
medium bowl and toss with 2 tablespoons of the vinegar. Add the spice
rub and toss to coat the chicken pieces evenly with the rub. Let sit
for 20 to 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat a large saute pan over medium heat. When hot add
the butter and when it has stopped foaming add the onion. Cook,
stirring occasionally until soft and light golden brown around the
edges, about 10 minutes. Add the ginger and garlic and cook an
additional two minutes. Add the chicken, potato, remaining vinegar and
1 cup water to the pan. Stir to combine ingredients and bring to a
boil. Reduce heat to maintain a lively simmer, cover and cook for 10
minutes. Turn chicken pieces, cover and cook an additional 10 minutes.
Remove cover, taste for seasoning, adding salt if necessary. Cook
uncovered until the chicken and potatoes are tender and the sauce has
thickened, about 5 minutes more. Serve immediately over rice.
Serves 4 to 6.
--
Cheers,
Gabe Menezes.
London, England
