A Reminiscent Tour of Mapusa Town in the 1950s Part I
During the Portuguese regime, Goa was divided into three main parts
Bardez, Salcete and Ilhas or Tiswadi. The name Bardêz is derived from
Bará-dês, signifying twelve (12) dessaíados, or small feudal centers that
after undergoing various dominations came under the Portuguese State. In
the absence of transportation, people were confined to each of the
above-mentioned parts. In fact, it was difficult, if not impossible, to
travel from one village to the other.
In the middle of the last century when I grew up, the majority of Goans
worked and lived for the day. People tilled fields and grew rice and all
kinds of cereals and vegetables and were quite self-sufficient. There was
no electricity in Goa except in cities. The word technology was alien to
Goa. The Africanders (Goans who worked in Africa) who returned to Goa in
the 1960s, brought along with them Electrolux brand kerosene-based
refrigerators; until then we had not seen a refrigerator.
In the absence of a refrigerator, if any food was left over, it had to be
warmed up at least twice a day during the hot summer or else randlelem
finnfinnttalem (the cooked food would get spoiled). Each village had a
centrally located place called "Tinto" where basic necessities like fish,
vegetables, etc. were sold. Since there was no cold storage facility, small
markets were arranged around villages where people bought and sold their
home-grown produce. The market days were fixed in such a way that people
could make use of the fetched products for 2 to 3 days. Thus, the Anjunkars
attended two small markets every week which were located at almost the same
distance: (1) Budvaradis Siolecho bazaar (Siolim market on a Wednesday) and
(2) Sonvaradis Kongottcho bazaar (Calangute market on a Saturday). Besides
these two weekly markets, one big market took place in Mapusa town and this
was meant for all Bardezkars (residents of Bardez). In this article, I
shall reminisce on the Mapusa town as it existed half a century ago.
Everyone had to walk to Mapusa on foot, regardless whether he/she had money
or not because there was no public transportation then. Children, mostly
from the age of 7 onwards, accompanied their parents to the bazaar. It was
fun to walk to Mapusa but not as much fun when we returned home because
while mother and father carried big pottleo (packages) on their heads and
in both hands (in my case only mother - as my father was abroad), each child
was required to carry one poti (small bag) in each hand. There were two
Dovornim (stone built structures on which one rests his/her burden if
carrying a head load) each in Assagao and Parra located at approximately 2 ½
kilometers from each other.
Mapusa is a small sleepy town, 13 Kilometers from the capital, Panaji. It
is one of the oldest cities of Goa, retracing its establishment to the time
of Marquês de Pombal. It was the capital of the old province of Bardêz.
The crown of Bardez, as it is also known, is basically a market place
which forms the hub of north Goa. It is the most important commercial
capital of the North Goa where the weekly Sukraracho bazaar (Friday
market) takes place. It is also the administrative headquarters of Bardez
Taluka (the province comprising of 12 villages), one of the Old Conquests of
Goa besides Salcete and Ilhas or Tiswadi. Mapusa was categorized as a
vila (town) by a Decree dated September 14, 1858. By Order No.1911 of the
Governor General, dated December 29, 1933, the town was designated the
status of a cidade (city). The Mapusa market was first heard of in the
1580 by a Dutch Chronicler who is believed to have described it as the
Bazaar Grande (Big market)! The older part of Mapusa town lies along the
base of the hill. To me, Mapusa remains the best town; no modern,
sophisticated town/city can ever replace it for me!
During the Portuguese regime the name of the town was written as Mapuçá.
Post liberation it was difficult for people to write it with the cedilla;
so, they wrote it without - Mapuca. Later, people dropped the letter c,
replaced it with 's and wrote it as Mapusa; most people write it this way
now. In Konkani, people call it Mapxem and its residents are known as
Mapxenkars. Some people from Salcete, especially the carpenters who bring
furniture to the Fair at Milagres Feast, call it Mavxem!
There are various versions about its name some say Mapusa is derived from
the Konkani word map/mhap meaning measure, and sa meaning to fill up.
The word put together Mapsa or Mhapsa means a place of measuring and
selling goods. It is also believed that the name is derived from Maha
which means big and push means to sustain or feed a big center for
distributing village products, which is what it was and continues to be to
date for North Goans. Yet another source connects its origins to a Sanskrit
word Paisata meaning a land reserved for the administrative official
granted in exchange for the services rendered; hence, from Maha-paisata to
Mapusa! Since its early days, Mapusa was the economic and commercial
center due to its strategic localization.
Anjuna is connected to Mapusa by a road which runs through Assagao and
Khorlim at the end of which it is linked to the Main Mapusa Street, which at
first was just a way for connecting the town to the northern part of Goa but
became important later when administrative buildings were located along its
side. The street is located in the core area of the town and is part of the
main traffic artery as well as a connecting spine for the secondary streets
in the town. The Main Street buildings reflect the pride and aspirations of
the community. In those days, the street was the center of community
activity; the center of its commerce, banking, government and social life.
So, my description of the Mapusa town in the 1950s shall be along the Main
Mapusa Street which actually housed major shops in town, and, of course, the
The Anjunkars mostly went to Mapusa via Assagao because the distance is a
little shorter than going via Parra. Once people reached the peak of the
Khorlim Ghat, they took a short cut from the right through the rocky hill
which saved them about 400 meters distance. To the right, there was a small
Ghumati where Hindus stopped and prayed for a while and then proceeded to
Mapusa. Today, there is a small temple built in its place. Although the
road on the down slope was meant for vehicular use, hardly any vehicles, not
even bicycles, passed by that road because they were a rarity at the time.
If you walked down the slope and looked to your right mid-way before
arriving at the U-turn, you could see a Tuberculosis (TB) Hospital which was
built by the Portuguese at the fag end of the 1950s. In those days, TB was
considered a very contagious disease so much so that when a person died, the
roof of the house would be opened so as to let off the microbes and the
whole house went through a kind of sunshine fumigation. Hence, the hospital
was built on the hill in an isolated place, away from the residential area.
To my knowledge the hospital had only half a dozen inmates; as such, it was
hardly put to full use. I really dont know what ever happened to it
If you continued to walk down the slope and looked up on the hill on your
left before you got to the U-turn, you can see a small copelin (chapel).
It is called: Khorle Ghattavoilo Milagrincho Khuris (Miraculous Cross of
Khorlim Ghat). Post liberation, it is customary for vehicle owners who
travel the route to hold a yearly ladain (litany) in the month of May as a
thanksgiving for saving the motorists from accidents at the sharp U-turn.
Only once did a bus skid off the road but it got stuck to the stone railing
and everyone was saved. People have great faith in the cross.
Back to the short cut via the hill: As we climbed down the ghat through
paim-vatt (pathway) actually, there was no pathway one had to step on
rocks and stones and make way through the bushes we sometimes even ate
churnam and kanndttam which we found on the way. The walk was so rough
that sometimes some people sprained their ankles, hit rocks and broke their
fingers or fell to the ground. My mother and I were among the fortunate to
walk with slippers; most men, women and children walked barefoot. If a
thorn poked, they would just lift the foot, remove and throw it away as if
nothing happened; there was no time to waste to cry over it - they had to
get to the market, do the shopping and return home for lunch where not only
their family members waited for them but also sunnim, mazram, dukram ani
kunkddam (dogs, cats, pigs and chicken) waited for their feed!
As we climbed down the little ghat short cut, we came across two Christian
houses, one on each side; the one on the right belonged to Jaki (Joaquim)
Fernandes. He was a short person but his wife, Carmelina, was taller than
him and hefty; she was a jovial person; both of them smoked pamparo. On
our way back home, we mostly halted at their place to drink water.
Carmelina would entertain us with her funny talk and crack jokes which would
elevate our mood and make us feel much better after a tiresome trip to the
market. The house on the left also belonged to another Christian, Ruzai
(Rosario) Fernandes; his sons name was Milagres.
In those days, there was practically nothing in Khorlim as we proceeded to
Mapusa for the Friday market except a garage on the left side which still
exits. At the first road crossing, on the right side, there was and still
there is a gironn/makn (paddy husking, wheat grinding machine; they also
ground various spice powders, including chillies powder). On the same side,
a little after the crossing, there was a Taverna Manu (Manus bar) which
still exists. From here on and until the next road crossing there were
several kansarachim dukornam (coppersmith shops) on either side of the
road; the place is known as Kansarvaddo.
From the afore-mentioned road crossing and until we reached the next
crossing, both the sides had residential houses surrounded by compound walls
through which the street ran and it remains the same to date. At the end of
the Khorlim road, two roads branched out the one on the right was followed
by vehicles to get into the town and the one on the left was a No Entry
for vehicles; pedestrians usually took this road to proceed to the market.
However, the few private taxis from Anjuna/Assagao used the wrong entry in
order to avoid direct confrontation with the police from the front of the
quartela (police station) because their cars were always overloaded with at
least 10 passengers!
For now, I shall travel as a pedestrian from the No Entry road and then
come back to the point and travel from the vehicular road on the right.
Travel to Mapusa by foot was not a big thing for children but there were two
sensitive points which bothered us while we crossed the No Entry road.
Yes, I am talking about the back side of the quartela with fortified
compound wall inside which robbers, murderers and freedom fighters were
imprisoned, and the sentry at the top; we had to cross both these points on
our way to the market and back home.
When we were about to reach the quartela corner, fear would grip us;
suddenly our heart palpitation would go dab-dab, dab-dab, dab-dab, dab-dab,
dab-dab much faster than regular beat because we had heard so many
stories taking place at the quartela where suspects were interrogated,
threatened and flogged with a chicote if one had been to a quartela once,
he would never want to visit it again. They laid the prisoners/freedom
fighters (mostly innocent) on ice blocks, beat them with calvalmarine and
hit them under their feet with thick wooden pieces/rulers until a person
could not walk, which sometimes resulted in paralysis Joe from Assagao was
a living example. Anyway, this little stretch of road of about 100 meters
was the most difficult and fearful for us to cross. When we were about 15
meters away from the quartela corner/compound wall, our mother would say to
us: Ugich zap kaddinastannam, azu-bazun ani voir pollenastannam
chol/cholat, nam zalear ghaltam tujer/tumcher ek. (Walk straight quietly
without looking sideways or up, otherwise I will give one on you). The
moment we reached the corner of the prison, though instructed by parents not
to look sideways, I could not help looking at the corner cell through the
corner of my eyes. I could see two prisoners standing and clutching the
iron bars from inside in the corner cell and grinning at us obviously they
were grinning at the women! They kept on signaling: Tst, tst; tst, tst;
tst, tst; tst, tst" until we crossed the corner!
We had crossed the first point. The next was to walk past the sentry who
was stationed in a sentry box in the middle of the fortified compound wall,
which had barbed wire on both its sides plus the top of the wall had broken
glass pieces planted on it (most of the bhattkars in those days also fixed
broken glass pieces on the top of their compound walls to prevent anyone
jumping into their compounds). Yes, the sentry was fully geared in uniform
with a helmet on his head and a gun attached with bayonet; he wore a wide
leather belt to which ammunition filled packets were fixed. Post
liberation, I saw many Second World War movies in which they depict sentries
guarding prisons with search lights on, but in those days quartela was the
only place we witnessed such sentries stationed at the top of the compound
wall. Here again, despite parents prior warning, I couldnt help looking
up at the sentry at least once. Whoever was stationed there always carried
a serious look on his face and looked in a bad mood. Surprisingly, most of
the time, the sentry on duty was a black African, who gracefully strolled
around the sentry box and was ready to fire his gun at the slightest
provocation. This is why our parents would warn us in advance and request
us not to look up.
Once we crossed these two sensitive points, we felt like free birds! While
we returned home, it was only one hurdle the sentry at the top, as we
couldnt see the prison cell windows. If we looked back, parents would come
to know, as we were always made to walk before them, and disobedience in
those days, was not taken kindly. The Mapusa Police Station continues to be
in the same quartela with a prison attached to it.
Now I return to road crossing at the end of Khorlim road. If the Anjunkars
proceeding to the market took the road on the right, they would first come
across a green house inside a green compound wall which belonged to Mr.
Bandekar, one of the mine owners from the town at the time.
A little further, one came across St. Josephs Chapel which falls in
Ansabhatt. People in those days were God-fearing. As soon as they reached
the chapel, they would halt for a while, say ek Amchea Bapa ani Noman Mori
(one Our Father and Hail Mary) and proceed to the market.
In front of the chapel, there is a horizontal road if you turn left, it
leads into Ansabhatt and if you turn right, it blends into the main street.
If you kept on walking straight through the open space in front of the
chapel, you could see a row of prison cells attached to the west side wall
of the quartela. Adjacent to these cells across the road there was open
field where Konkani tiatros were held in a mattov. Walking on the main
street, about fifty meters ahead was the front side of the quartela. Here
again, we were asked not to look inside the quartelas entrance on the left.
The Police jeep drivers in those days were very rough; they exited the
quartela like a rocket! If we heard the accelerating sound of a jeep coming
out from the quartela, we would wait until it exited and took off like an
airplane. The quartela also had message carriers called pilotos (pilots)
who carried messages on motorcycle from Mapusa to Betim/Panjim and
vice-versa. One of my Escola Primaria mates, Innocente DSouza from
Chinvar, Anjuna, who was much senior to me in age, joined the then policia
as a piloto; he retired a few years ago as ASI.
Adjoining the quartela was the only Post & Telegraphs office (P&TO) which
served us, Anjunkars, until the 1980s! Although Anjuna is only around 8
kilometers away from Mapusa, a telegram received at P&TO in Mapusa would be
directed to Siolim from where a person would pedal his way to Anjuna on a
bicycle and deliver the telegram to the addressee. Though delivery was
late, people appreciated his services and gave him tips. My father expired
on Thursday, April 28, 1983, while I was employed in Saudi Arabia.
Telephone service then was still a rarity in Goa. I was able to convey
messages to my family in Anjuna through O Coqueiro Restaurant in Porvorim
where my neighbor, the late Joaquim Antonio D'Souza was employed. I also
sent several telegrams to my family in Anjuna. Due to the 2-day weekend
here, I could not get an Exit-Re-Entry visa, which I was able to get only on
the following Saturday. When I reached Bombay, it being the peak season, I
could not get a seat on a flight to Goa because I did not have a confirmed
ticket. After spending 10 hours at the airport, I went to the Cooperage
Maidan where I managed to get a standing place in a bus. I traveled from
Bombay to Mapusa as a standing passenger; I reached home on May 2. However,
all the telegrams that were sent from Saudi Arabia reached only after I
arrived home, almost after a week! In fact, the person from Siolim brought
them to my house for three consecutive days and I received them all in
The large yellow building next to the P&TO was the Escola Primaria de Mapusa
where Segundo Grau public exams were held. Opposite the school, there was
a Childrens Park.
As we kept on walking, we came across the Hanuman Temple on the left.
Behind the temple, there was Dassarat Talkies. Next to the temple there
were various small shops and outside those shops there were rows of bicycles
for hire the cheapest and convenient transportation means in those days.
A little ahead, in Ajrekars Building, Shri Nivas Naik Buriye, a spare parts
dealer was located.
If one looked to the right, he came across the beautiful Mapusa Municipal
Jardim (Mapusa Municipal Garden) with a concrete floor in the middle. It
was known as the square and municipal garden "Mártires da República"; it was
in this place that the population of the city came for their enjoyment and
pastime, especially in the evenings. The garden was famous for hosting two
annual dances Natalanche Porbek Dans" ani "Milagr Saibinninche Porbek
Dans (Dance at Christmas and the dance at Our Lady of Miracles feast). To
my knowledge, no dances were held anywhere else in Bardez in those days
except in Mapusa Garden. Since the dances were formal, only elite people
participated. I did venture a trip to Mapusa on my bicycle on a cold
Christmas night and witnessed a Christmas Dance in the garden. People
occupied the middle portion of the floor, held each other tight (the weather
was very cold with dew falling from the top with no protection from above)
and danced Waltz, Foxtrot, Tango, Bolero, Rumba-Samba, Cha-cha-cha, Lancer,
Contradans, etc., to the rhythmic tunes of the one and only Johnson and his
Jolly Boys! The late Johnson Carvalhos was the top band in the whole of
Goa until the 1960s! Chairs and tables were arranged around the concrete
floor for people to sit down and relax and enjoy their drinks and snacks at
the end of each dance.
Adjacent to the garden, on the east side, there was a tea shop and by its
side there was a little entrance which led to the stairs of the famous
Pensao Imperial Bar', which was frequented by men who wanted to avoid
people moving on the ground.
If one kept on walking straight on the main road, a little further there was
a two-storey Carvalho building on the left. One always saw a fair, young
man, Faria, (Milos son), popularly known to all as Babush, probably in
his late twenties, strolling up and down the balcony of the building facing
the road, nibbling at his finger nails, smiling and greeting everyone
passing by that road; he was out of his mind. He went crazy if you talked
to him about marriage and immediately shook his head in agreement.
If you turned from the main road into the gully on the right, you came
across some more spare part shops but the gully was very famous for Shri
Krishna Bhojan popularly known to all as Bhattttachi khannavoll (Bhats
eatery) where they served hot raw rice in a pelo (stainless steel glass)
with nusteachem umonn (fish curry) which was brought in a stainless steel
container and served with big spoons. Fried fish, papad and pickle were
also served. The food was served by bhatts who wore a dhontir from the
waist on without a top except for a religious thread which hung across their
chest and back; they did not wear any footwear. The food was always warm
and the service was very fast. On the left, there was Dhuris khannavoll.
At the end of the gully, there was Janaki Bookstall from where I bought
my stock of Konkani Romansi (Novels)!
Coming out of the gully and getting back on the main street, as we walked a
little ahead of the Carvalho building, we would come across Café Chaya
where one could eat patoll vo mix bhaji, bhoje, mirsango, bottate-vadde,
etc. and wash it down with a cup of tea, coffee or goddddeachi soda. Next
to the café, there was a bookstall; sorry, I cannot recall its name.
As we kept on walking and approached the corner, we came across the famous
Farmacia João Menezes which was located at the tip of the
shops-cum-residential stretch by the main street. The pharmacy was run by
the proprietor, Joao, and his wife, Dona Bertha. Joao was a well-built,
tall person who had little protruding teeth and wore spectacles low on his
nose. Bertha was the one who mainly handled the business; she, too, wore
spectacles low on her nose and looked more like a scientist. She was one of
the few smart women I came across in those days who was actively involved in
the pharmacy business. Both of them wore Lab coats and so did their staff.
To the left of the pharmacy, there was a wooden upper floor in an old
building where Zunvea voilo haddancho dotor (A bone setter from the
islands) had a small dispensary. He was a very good bone setter and I know
it for a fact because he reset my broken hand. While I was jumping around,
I fell on the edge of table with my right hand under the belly and broke it
into two pieces. While I was rushed to the doctor, bamboo sticks were
placed around my broken hand and tied with lugttache tir (cloth strips) to
hold it temporarily in place. The doctor put me at ease with a nice smile,
held my broken arm in both his hands and asked me several questions about my
place, schooling, etc., including funny questions like: Tum dukra pattlean
vo cheddvam pattlean danvtalo re? (Were you running after a pig or girls?)
At one point, he suddenly reset my broken bone in one push which sent a
dizzy sensation in my head. He then applied a thick lep (a sticky plaster
made from the bark of several trees, including assnnanchi sal. Next, he
placed four flat bamboo sticks around my hand and tied them tightly with
gauze. An appointment was given to see him in 8 days at which time he would
know if the bone was set properly, which mostly turned out to be right.
Total recovery period was about 8-10 weeks which is the same if one took
treatment in a hospital. I still remember him say: Ho tuzo hath sarko
zatoch, adlea poros vodik mozbut zatolo! (When you recover from the
fracture, your hand will be stronger than before!)
A little further to bone setters dispensary, one would come across Madhav
G.S. Duklo shop, Stationers from Calangute the shop is still there,
followed by Tadeu Sports shop, and next to it there was Luis de Menezes
a wholesale distributor.
We then came across the "Tikttem" a T-shaped road junction. Though there
were hardly any vehicles at the time, a traffic police was stationed at the
junction. He stood facing the up slope so that he could stop anyone trying
to enter the main street which was a 'No Entry' zone. He directed the
vehicles coming down the slope either to his left to Assagao/Anjuna road, or
to his right to Betim/Panjim road.
Next, there was the Café Zuzarte a hotel owned by Africanders from
Guirim. Besides patties, egg-chops, samboosa, bottate-vadde, bhoje,
mirsango, etc., it was quite popular for a variety of pão-bhaji. People
found it convenient to step into the café as soon as they descended the
slope. One of the brothers was married to one of Jakis daughters from
Next to the hotel there was Eugene DeMello he sold musical instruments,
including violin, as well as religious statues, rosaries, etc. Next in
line, there was the Coulecar Bookstall they sold books and all types of
stationery. Next to it there was Drogaria Menezes & Cia and adjoining it
there was Casa Leao Bar. Next to the bar there was the famous wholesale
liquor dealer VALENTINO F. PINTO who sold famous brands like St. Pauli
Girl cerveja (beer), Maceira Brandy; Moscatel, Tinto, garrafao de Vinho
Branco, etc. The main entrance had a swinging Saloon Door it swung either
way when customers entered and exited the shop. Outside its main entrance
door, there was a two-way staircase - people entered from one side and
exited from the other. The name of the shop was written in bold letters in
white against green background on the staircase wall facing the road.
Continuing on the up slope, a little further at the curve on the left, there
was a watch repairer and next to it there was Bhikus small office where he
helped people obtain their passports.
If one kept walking up the slope, on the left there were some tea shops, and
above them, on a wooden floor Hotel Godinho was located, where government
employees had their lunch accompanied with a drink. On this very side,
there was the famous C. DSouza Hotel - the oldest hotel in Mapusa other
hotels emerged at a later date. Initially, they had a tea shop in the main
old market (my neighbor, Joaquim Mariano Fernandes, aka Jaki Mari, still
runs a welding garage in that shop) but later on they succeeded in obtaining
the above-mentioned premises on the main street, and they had a very
successful business at this place.
Everyones specialty then was mosko paõ vo ghoddacho paõ (sweet bread with
a few raisins in it with an application of butter), which was very tasty and
quite filling. The bread was quite big in size it wouldnt fit in
childrens hands. Everyone preferred to eat the paõ with coffee. As soon
as the waiter brought the paõ and coffee, we would dip the bread in the cup
and savor it bit by bit and it would melt in our mouth. It is a pity they
dont serve that bread any more in Goan cafés. However, the late Anthony
Mendes left the taste of ghoddacho paõ for us in his song Mogachem Tarum
which he sang in Amchem Noxib movie. Every Goan band proudly plays this
number at weddings/dances till date. Here are the lyrics of the song:
MOGACHEM TARUM by the late Anthony Mendes:
Bexttench ragan chavon, kiteak vetai danvon
Tujea mogan poi voitam hanv bavon
Mogan zaitem baie ghoddta, kednaim hansta kednaim roddta
Punn tem tuvem-hanvem sozmochem poddta
Moga tum mojem sukh, moddta mogacho rukh
Gopan astoch tum lagonam mhaka bukh
Hacho mog kelolo porum, danvta koxem aka dhorum
Doriean lotton voita mogachem tarum
Painnean doloitam mhunnon bexttem mhuttlem
Mog sozmonam poieat hem ragan fullem
Dubav lagta hem konnaimkui punn bullem
Hem mhaka fottovn-fottovn, kalliz tuttovn hath dakovn chollem
Moga zalem tem zanv, mozo ghoddacho pão
Mhaka soddxi tor jiv ditolom hanv
Mhaka bhuloilolo forsan, mog zalolo gelea Marsan
Azun povnk nam hanvem mogachi ghoddsan
Rav gho sukha mojea, sorga velea anjea
Kolsanv denvta poi sintimentan tujea
Puro xikoilam tem lisanv, zogddim nakat koriea tensanv
Devan ghatlea puro kurpechem bhesanv
Mog tuzo assa mhunnon danvon ietam
Zalem tem zalem sogllem visor atam
Tuji khoxi kor sogllem sonsun ghetam
Punn tuka fuddarachi rannim korun, raza hanv zatam.
Café C. DSouza is also responsible for Mapusas unique snacks patties,
crockets, sandwich, egg-chops, bottate-vadde, etc., which continue to be the
attraction of everyone visiting the town. The moment one entered the hotel,
the waiters would bring and place plates on the table containing the
above-mentioned snacks. I remember, once an old woman wanted only a
ghoddacho pão and coffee but she was shocked when she saw several plates
placed on her table with various snacks. She immediately said to the
waiter: Baba, hem sogllem hanvem tuka hadd sangonk nam re puta; mhaka
fokot mosko pão ani copi (coffee) hadd. (Baba, I didn't ask you to bring
all these things; just bring me bread-butter and coffee.) The waiter
replied: Bhienakai ghe maim, tuvem teo vostu khallearuch ami tuje poixe
ghetelet nam zalear nam. (Dont worry mother, we will charge you only if
you eat those snacks otherwise we wont). The old woman felt good and said:
Toxem re mhojea puta; hanv sozmolim tumi mojea lagchean hea soglleache
poixe ghetelet; hem sogllem ghora vorpak, mojea ghoran anik konn nam! (Is
it like that my son? I thought you would charge me for all these snacks; to
take all these things home, I don't have anyone else at home!) When
outsiders enter todays cafés and hotels in Mapusa, they are as much
surprised as the old woman when all those snacks are placed on their tables
without ordering them, and they sometimes pose the same questions to waiters
as posed by the old woman. Anyway, hats off to the late C. DSouza for
introducing this unique way of serving snacks without asking for them. It
is a pity that the heir to the hotel, Francis, disappeared from the face of
the earth without leaving behind a single trace of his disappearance. One
of my neighbors, Menino DSouza, worked at the counter of the old hotel on
the main road. He walked from Gaumvaddy to the hotel every day - 365 days a
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