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Wendell Rodrigues, the fashion designer based in Goa, was a complete
surprise. His paper was on the Pano Bhajo or the traditional skirt and
blouse which evolved in Goa from the times of the Portuguese rule. Semi
nudity and comfortable loin clothes, the baring of women's mid-riffs and
legs offended the Christian sensibility of the Portuguese and forced
edicts slowly made people cover themselves in bed sheets and finally in
a coat/blouse with long sleeves - the pano and a single pleated sarong
called the bhajo. This influence was traced to Indonesia and Macau where
the opium trade also flourished besides Goa. Today traditionalists use
this as a ceremonial dress and for certain formal dance functions.
Wendell also went into the dance and song traditions explaining the role
of devadasis who smuggled temple idols from persecution, vandalisation
and destruction. To hear a designer associated with fashion give such an
in-depth paper was a real eye-opener. Wendell rounded off his talk,
ending with jewellery accessories of the time as well as the details of
the dances of Goa influenced by the French minuet and hilarious
innuendoes used in their songs against the Portuguese about cannonballs
et al.
http://www.hindu.com/mag/2009/01/11/stories/2009011150230700.htm
~(^^)~
Avelino