Well, I just had to try setting my TPS voltage to .59K ohms......bad idea! Major on/off surging at 3200 RPM and another spot at 4000 RPM. So, I set the TPS back to .80K ohms and verified that the EFI pots were at the 1 o'clock position and she was back to her old smooth self this morning. In fact, while I was in there I went ahead and changed the fuel filter. She's good for another 70,000 miles! :^) Purolator 66441 is a perfect replacement for the newcomers on the list.
Kevin Hawkins // Greensboro, NC [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.freecfm.com/r/raddboy Y2K Kawasaki ZRX1100 //'93 Yamaha GTS1000 //'85 FZ750 ################################################ Jeff Boman's success story below....... David, A little history here. I've been "dicking" around with this bike since about August of 2000. I bought the bike in April of 2000 and started experiencing starting problems, rough idle, and surging. I suspected that the TPS was the real culprit from the start but having followed the recommendation from the list to set it at the ECU I assumed it was okay. Additionally, after checking the resistance range with the TPS off the bike I again assumed all was well with the TPS. Here's what I know today. 1. Using cheap ARCO gas led to fuel injector clogging, which fuel additives have corrected. 2. Thanks to Nick T. I know that the fuel system tends to lean-out between 3K and 4K RPM, which means that the bike needs to be set rich at idle. 3. Balanced throttle bodies are important for both low and mid range performance. 4. The TPS needs to be adjusted at the TPS and not at the ECU. Now, regarding the TPS. The manual indicates that the TPS resistance should measure between .39k and .59K ohms when the throttle is closed. The manual shows exactly which terminals to check the resistance across. To access the TPS, remove the center glove box/compartment and the right side cowling. The TPS is attached to the right side of the throttle body assembly. Two 3mm allens hold it in place. Unplug the connector. (I found that moving the pressure sensor up and out of the way allows easier access to get the multi-meter leads in place.) Check the resistance in the throttle-closed position at the furthest right terminal (#4 position for reference) and the #2 terminal. It should measure within the acceptable range. Now, adjust the TPS until the resistance measures .39k ohms and determine how it runs. If it runs poorly or makes the running condition worst then adjust the TPS to the high end of the range. It may take a couple of iteration to find the proper setting for your bike. I do not believe that .59k ohms will be the proper setting for all GTSs but the proper resistance should be somewhere within the range of adjustability. I hope this helps. Jeff B. -----Original Message----- From: Dave Evans [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Monday, September 17, 2001 9:30 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: "Yes It's Over"---"The Surge is Gone!!!!" Hi Jeff, Can you please detail exactly what you have done here. An exact, step by step procedure would be appreciated, assuming complete incompetence on my behalf. Regards David 99 'T' GTS1000
