LOL Kevin. I was actually referring to those who have to suffice with a loose plate! But since you're in such a frisky reply mode, I'll stop there in fear of even further degradation. ~:O
GWN Daren > -----Original Message----- > From: GTS-1000 Owners List [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf > Of Kevin Hawkins > Sent: September 24, 2002 12:37 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: seeking chain advice.NOW FLUFFY > > > See there Daren! You've been peening the head of your pin too > close to your > plate! I understand this happens to single guys a lot when they're not > getting enough rides in.....know what I mean (wink, wink, nudge, nudge). :> ^) > > Kevin Hawkins // Greensboro, NC > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > http://www.kevinhawk.com > Y2K Kawasaki ZRX1100 //'93 Yamaha GTS1000 > > > +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ > > Actually you don't roll over the end of the pin anywhere near the plate. > The instructions that come with the rivet tool and chain give you a > diameter that the end of the pin must be spread too...more than > that is not > recommended. The flared end of the pin is then just right to hold the side > plate in place without binding. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Daren [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] > Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2002 12:26 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: seeking chain advice > > > Yeah, you could be right John. I probably tried to round the head of the > pin > too much. I figured that because of the importance of that link staying > together, and never having seen what it looks like when peened by the > proper > tool, that I would play it safe and make sure I had it peened over enough. > > The other factor is that you need to roll the metal over close enough to > the > link's side plate to make sure the plate is seated (correct link width) > onto > the pins where it needs to be. Otherwise you might end up with a peened > pin > and a loose plate (I've heard stories about some married folks having > experienced this phenomenon). {:-0 > > GWN > Daren > > > > > Quoting John Laurenson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>: > > > Daren, > > > > > > If you hit the link that hard to peen it, you will probably locked up > the > > link. It only takes a few light taps to lock the link in place. A few > > light taps doesn't bother the sprocket at all. If you beat the hell out > of > > it the link to flatten the head, the chain will kink as it > rotates on the > > sprocket and beating it will damage the sprocket. That isn't > necessary , > > it > > only takes a very slight flattening of the tip to lock the > master link on > > the chain. If you question that, try it and then try to remove the link > > after a few light taps. It takes a grinder to get the link apart once > the > > head is even slightly peened. > > > > > > John "Hawke" Laurenson, Jr. > > > > http://homepage.mac.com/johnlaurenson > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On 9/24/02 12:41 AM, "Spee-dee-D" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > > > I don't know about hammering against the sprocket?!?! That doesn't > sound > > > too good to me. I put together my first "peened" masterlink this > spring > > and > > > it took some pretty heavy blows with a hefty hammer and punch on one > side > > > and a large steel anvil on the other side (resting on the floor and > > > supported by my daughter). I will definitely be looking to borrow the > > > proper tool next time. I think you also might want to measure the > > distance > > > between the plates once together to make sure they are the same > distance > > > apart as the other links. > > > > > > GWN > > > Daren > > > > > > > > > > > >> -----Original Message----- > > >> From: GTS-1000 Owners List > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf > > >> Of John Laurenson > > >> Sent: September 23, 2002 7:52 AM > > >> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >> Subject: Re: seeking chain advice > > >> > > >> > > >> Kevin, > > >> > > >> All you need is a pair of needle nose vicegrips and a center punch. > The > > >> ends of the rivet master link are a very soft steel. Hold the side > > plates > > >> on tight with the vicegrip. The tips flatten out and hold with a > > >> couple of > > >> light taps of a hammer and center punch with the master link > > >> sitting on the > > >> sprocket when you hit them. I have never had any problem with their > > ever > > >> coming lose after being pinned. > > >> > > >> hawke > > >> > > >> On 9/23/02 9:30 AM, "Kevin Hawkins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > >> > > >>> I need to replace the chain on my GTS. In the past, I've simply > > >> used a DID > > >>> Gold X-ring 530 VM with clip-type master link. This time, I'd > > >> like to maybe > > >>> buy the DID ZVM 530 with rivet master link! Could any of you > WONDERFUL > > >>> listers like to ship me your chain riveter tool for a > couple of days? > > >>> PLEASE!?!??!!?? I'll be glad to pay postage both ways! I'd buy the > > >>> Motion-pro tools myself but they run around $80 and I just > > >> don't use often > > >>> enough. > > >>> > > >>> Kevin Hawkins // Greensboro, NC > > >>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >>> http://www.kevinhawk.com > > >>> Y2K Kawasaki ZRX1100 //'93 Yamaha GTS1000 > > >>> > > >>> > > >>> > > >>> > > >>> --On Saturday, September 21, 2002 6:23 PM -0400 Derek Baylor > > >>> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > >>> > > >>>> Just yesterday I found that the clip on my chain master link had > > >>>> vanished. I have no idea how long it's been gone, but it sure > > >> freaks me > > >>>> out the idea of having my chain fall apart. I'd like to use a > > regular, > > >>>> non-clip style masterlink, but I've never used one before and want > to > > >>>> make sure I don't screw up. Can anyone recommend the proper tools > and > > >>>> technique needed, or where I might find this information? > > >>> > > >>> > > >>> I started using non-clip (rivet-type) master links just recently. > After > > >>> messing around with the stupid clip for some time (my > master clip had > a > > >>> press fit side plate), I bought the Motion-Pro > > >> chain-breaker/riveter. Works > > >>> a treat! > > >>> > > >>> If you can get the side plate on, you can rivet the pins with a > > >> hammer and > > >>> a drift, but I think geting a chain riveter would be easier and more > > >>> precise, plus it can be used to break cam chains and stuff if you do > > any > > >>> engine repair. > > >>> > > >>> So, with a riveter: > > >>> > > >>> 1) Thread the chain on the bike > > >>> 2) Put the master link in place, ensure that the O-rings > are in place > > >>> properly > > >>> 3) Press on the side link > > >>> 4) Rivet the pins (basically, mushrooming out their heads) > > >>> 5) Make sure the side plate is on good (I pry on it a bit) > > >>> 6) Adjust the chain. > > >>> > > >>> There are more details there, but if you have installed a clip > > >> masterlink > > >>> chain, you know all this already. :-) > > >>> > > >>> Take care, > > >>> Mike > > >>> > > >>> -- > > >>> Michael Weaver (706)542-6462 [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >>> Engineering Services EITS > > >>> University of Georgia, Athens Ga. )O( > > >>> Public PGP key: http://www.arches.uga.edu/~weaver/pgp.html > > >> > > >> > > > > ================================================================== > ==================== > > NOTICE - This communication may contain confidential and privileged > information that is for the sole use of the intended recipient. 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