I'd say the major point was conspicuous consumption. I think they are very impressive looking especialy the ones where the pleats are alternating colors and sometimes have two colors stacked on top of each other. I am thinking mostly of the miliatary bases in this case, but I think I remember one woman's gown with alternating colors. (Oddly enough, as I recall it was it a book on the Elizabethan time period). These to me, are a clear indicator of one of the ways the organ pipe pleats are made. If you can find the pictures of the military bases (I have them somewhere, I will look for those too), they show that the pleats are actually seams sewing the triangular "gores" together To hold the shape of the pleats they ran a tape along the back in several places. I wouldn't be surprised if they were stuffed in some cases.

Sg

Kathryn Parke wrote:

This is fascinating -- thank you!  It seems rather impractical, though -- does 
it provide extra warmth, perhaps, having all that extra fabric?  Or was it just 
one more conspicuous consumption thing, do you suppose?  I can certainly see 
how the men would appreciate looking that much more bulked-up -- I'm thinking 
of Henry VIII's enormous silhouette -- but I'd think the weight alone would 
make it far less comfortable than other styles.

KP


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