----- Original Message -----
From: "Becky" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 10:40 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
Thank you for the description. I still wonder how the sleeves are
attached. There is no strap showing. Is the pearl necklace in her bodice
or is it attached to the edges of a very translarent partlet? One
description said the beading trim was attached to the under layer. What
under layer? Was it attached to a chemise or smock? I don't see any of it
except for the poofs of white.
OK the problem here is you're thinking of 2 layers, smock and gown, whereas
there would almost certainly have been 3 smock, kirtle (which does the bust
supporting work of a corset) and gown. The trim you see around the neckline
would be attached to the kirtle and then the gown's neckline is cut slightly
larger to show off the kirtle's bejewelled neckline. I seriously doubt that
there is any partlet involved, if you look at other portraits from the same
era http://www.uvm.edu/%7Ehag/sca/tudor/index.html it becomes much clearer
that it's a necklace. Also if you look carefully at her wrist you can see
that her cuff is gathered into a band, this, along with the perfect
appearance of all the puffs leads me to think that they are actually faux
puffs rather than incredibly huge chemise sleeves (as they would have to be
to fill sleeves that large)
I found a pdf of the costume by Nina ????. It has a white chemise with
blackwork on it as suggested undergarments. Is this right? I don't know.
Since she does so much research and garb work, I assume she knows what she
is talking about in this portrait.
It does look like there's some very simple blackwork (possibly blanket
stitch) around the neckline but I can't see any evidence for that on the
cuffs. Of course if you're not making a slavish reproduction of the portrait
blackwork was very popular at this time and it would be equally accurate to
have blackwork cuffs.
Is she wearing earrings or is the trim on her hood?
I found the perfect cloth that is the same color and pattern in the
portrait. That was a big start on the costume. I don't know if i can find
gfabric for the front and undersleeves. I guess I could embroider it
myself. I'd rather not have to do that much work by hand.
<snip>
It's the trim on her hood, you can see how it forms part of the pattern of
the jewels which run all the way around the French Hood. On the topic of
French hoods, have a look at Ninya Mikhaila's theory on French hood
construction http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/frenchhood.html, I follow a
similar plan, but I attach the veil to the crescent piece and by gathering a
circle of fabric onto the under cap I make it into a caul. See Sarah
Goodman's page http://modehistorique.com/elizabethan/coif.html for the
evidence that convinced me that a cauls were worn underneath French Hoods.
For the undersleeves if you're making an exact reproduction of the portrait
it's going to be hard to find the right fabric (though I did once find a
chenille voided velvet that looked close) I think you may have to cope with
a flat brocade. If it makes you feel any better to find out that a
professional costumer had to make the same compromise look at
http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/eliztower.html
Let me know if you have any more questions.
Elizabeth
--------------------------------------------
Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/
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