This is kind of what I meant when I spoke of doing a fine-fit with the lining before you add the garment fabric. A well fitted muslin will deal with some if not all the problems of possible bias when the the outer fabric is added. Most of all my antique jackets were constructed in this way. There seems to be a slight change in the shape and the wearing when the two layers come together. My experience, anyway. This is one area that really shows up when modern patterns try to emulate the ninteenth century fit...starting with the shoulder seam sitting squarely on the shoulder. Another way the seamstresses seemed to solve the problem is with a little wadding in the armhole area. If you are using an antique construction, maybe adding the padding which will also give a look of a fuller bustline, is what is missing in your calculations.
Kathleen ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "sunny sunshine buchler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "h-cost" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 1:47 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fit of a victorian bodice > On 3/3/06, Cin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > >Hi, I'm making an 1865-70 bodice (first bustle era) starting from the > > Truly Victorian ball bodice pattern, and I'm having trouble with the > > fit around the armholes -- there's a horizontal stress line about > > 1/2" above the bottom of the armhole (right at the top of my corset) > > it extends about 3" into the bust, and about the same length across > > the back. I'm not sure how to get rid of it -- the rest of the bodice > > fits beautifully... > > I'm sure you've thought of these, given your professional training, > but I thought of another possible cause, the stress lines are actually > due to slight bias stretch. Fix this by interlining with straight > grain goods (selvedge offcuts are traditional) or tailors tape, tho > this may be too heavy if your chemise lace is showing thru. > > Yet another possible cause, the shoulder strap wants to lie slightly > outside or inside of where it was designed to go. You may have to > release the side & CB seams, then pivot or slide the section until the > straps lie right. > --cin > Cynthia Barnes > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > _______________________________________________ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
