[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I am not really familiar with the Regency era; however I really liked the dress that Jayne 
(Rosamund Pike) wore in the opening scene of the latest version of Pride & Prejudice (with 
Keira Knightly) – she wears the same style dress a different points throughout the movie, one 
in pink and the other in blue. I have looked at the patterns sites that carry Regency patterns 
(Sense & Sensibility, etc.) but have been unable to locate anything like this. There is a 
dress with an overcoat (?) that has an under-the-bust piece to connect either side of the 
overcoat. While I have not seen the movie Sense & Sensibility with Kate Winslet as Marianne 
Dashwood, I have seen screen shots and she is wearing a similar style outfit, a peach & 
white gown on a picnic.
http://www.geocities.com/mm_regency1/ss_mpwd.html

Does anyone know what the overcoat is called and what type of dress the base dress is?

Isn't this a marvelous style? The Sense and Sensibility versions are a bit toned down in fullness, but it was still nice that they included this style. I've seen it most often called a robe or open robe. It's a brief transition style from the late 18th century robe a l'anglaise where the lower part of the bodice is cut away. This gown, from the Victoria and Albert Museum, shows the transition. You can see the evolution: start with the earlier 18th waistline, then move the waist up and make the gown even more open at front, continue until waistline is very high, replace rich silk petticoat with full muslin underdress/chemise dress, and voila!
http://images.vam.ac.uk/images/photo/sch/20030207/high/1088-005.jpg

Here are several variations, all from the late 1790s:

Gold Stripe silk robe from Met Museum of Art (image: Columbia)
http://www.columbia.edu/itc/barnard/theater/kirkland/3136/Early_19th_Century_Gallery/pages/1795.5.htm
and another view:
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/dreh/ho_C.I.37.46.1.htm

Open robe, brown silk, Manchester City Gallery
http://www.manchestergalleries.org/costume/catalogue/Display.php?irn=13418&QueryPage=/costume/catalogue/index.php

Silk dress (rear view) Los Angeles City Museum
http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/mwebcgi/mweb.exe?request=record&id=21549&type=101

and an Italian version in glazed linen, also from LACMA:
http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/mwebcgi/mweb.exe?request=record&id=40930&type=101

First image at:
http://exposition2005.monsite.wanadoo.fr/page3.html

Long sleeved day dress version:
http://images.vam.ac.uk/images/photo/sch/20030207/high/1087-012.jpg

And another from MMOA:
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/eudr/hob_1998.222.1.htm

And this, worn as a wedding dress in the U.S., shows the pleating in the back:
http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?recview=true&id=49614&coll_keywords=wedding%20dress&coll_package=0&coll_start=1

And a couple of fashion plates (two of them may be redrawings)
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/regency/evening-plates/1790s-gown-gloves.jpg
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/regency/evening-plates/1795-threegowns-columbia.jpg
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/regency/evening-plates/1797-muslin-glove.jpg

Janet Arnold shows a similar gown in her Patterns of Fashion from this period.


- Hope
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