I have an antique hoop from family that I use and my skirts re about 3
panels.  It fits just right.
Proportion says it all! One of the problems I have with the 'new' patterns
is that the bodice is usually for a modern fit and is too long for the
proportions viewed in Godey's and Peterson's. The two extant whole gowns I
own are slightly short waisted for me (re modern fit) but perfect for 19thC
wear.
In making Plus Size gowns,
 etc. for customers, it is sometimes a little dicey getting the right
proportion for the period.  For waisted gowns they usually think their waist
is somewhere ...(male or female)below the navel.

Kathleen
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: yardage required (Tudor Tailor Review) (was Re:
[h-cost]Re:h-costume Dig...


>
> In a message dated 4/18/2006 12:10:04 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> The CW  garments that I
> have, or have examined, average 4/5 yards around the  bottom, which is
about
> 3 1/2 or four panels of 45" fabric.
>
>
> *******************
> 1830's skirts will have a mere 3 1/2 yard hem sometimes. This looks  right
if
> in proportion with the top...huge sleeves and such.
> It depends on the scale and balance of the whole garment.
> When I make an 1860s gown, 3,  45" panels are usually plenty for  a skirt.
> But then the hoop underneath has to be the right scale. [interestingly,
> sometimes an 1840s or 50s gown requires more to look right]
> Bustle gown regularly suffer from too full a drape or ruffle. There is
> something more realistic about skimpier ruffles sometimes.
>
> I've seen lots of garments [usually on stage] that are too full.
>
> It's balance and proportion....of the WHOLE OUTFIT that can make the
> difference.
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