I am making a suit for a friend, based on the 1630s engravings by
Bosse - doublet and breeches... What I can't work out is the waist of the breeches: in Historical Costume in Detail, the development seems to be from points laced through the doublet to the outside, forming decorative bows (which remain after their functional job is gone) to using solid metal hooks on the inside of the doublet.
None of this sits with the informal wear shown in Bosse, where the
breeches are shown sitting at the natural waist or below the paunch since the doublet is generally worn open from mid-chest. Would they be gathered onto a solid waistband and then buttoned (as the flies were buttoned) or was there a 'drawstring' type option?
There's an example in Naomi Tarrant's book/Scottish Natl Costume Museum... 4 nice photos. to explain just how the hooks, WB and CF stiffener work to create the look. The doublet exterior fabric is pretty well shot, so all the interior construction details are visible, including a bit of whale bone vertically at the CF belly. I use a 19th style covered button placket as that's what Himself prefers. There's no requirement in my circle for slavish historicity.
Bucknell shows both styles, from the very wide 'bag' breeches to the
narrower 'spanish' breeches, as being fastened to the doublet lining - but wouldn't that give (being blunt) the wearer a bit of a wedgy, especially since they are required for fencing? As a former kendo-ista & fencer, I'll like to recommend a fairly close fitting crotch seam. While it sounds counter intuitive, the tighter fit actually allow more freedom of moment in the balestra, pasada sotto, fleche & lunge moves. I'm currently making my 3rd early 17th c suit. I also make the WB rather high, about as high as men's trousers in the 1940s (think Bing Crosby in White Christmas). Modern men dont wear pants up there, but again, it may not be grunge fashion, but it gives great range of motion. Paunch or no paunch, that's where I'd put it for mobility. You might be considering skipping the breeches to doublet connection altogether. I'd recommend maintaining the connection. Connecting the doublet to the breeches WB, whether on not you use the elastic trick, tugs the doublet down makes it hang smoothly over the body. --cin [EMAIL PROTECTED] _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
