<< I've read the books from Janet Arnold or Noran Waugh or others, they are
a good help, but not what I'm looking for. The thing that interests me is
exactly how to draft the pattern with the help of a certain drafting
"system" (I don't know how to call it). You make a net with the help of the
measurements and out of it you make the pattern. It is usual that you make a
"basic" pattern and then modify it to the pattern you want by for ex.
relocating the seams, increasing or decreasing their widths etc. >>
It sounds like you want to get into flat pattern drafting rather than
draping or copying a previous pattern.
I found several in a large library here, most were from the 1960s and they
took you through what measurements to take and how to create a basic body
block (usually with darts) that can be altered to have seams or darts where
you want.
I don't know the titles, but they are under dress making, patterning in the
Dewey Decimal system:
646.4
Locally these turn up:
Dressmaking Pattern Design
Ann Ladbury's Guide To Simple Pattern Cutting
Ladbury, Ann.
London : B.T. Batsford, 1986. 120 p. : ill. ; 26 cm.
The Art Of Pattern Drafting.
Stringer, Pamela C.
Auckland : Ramlex Services Ltd., 1988. 182 p. : ill. ; 30 cm.
Creating Fashion
Foster, Betty
London : Thames : Macdonald, 1983 160p. : ill. ; 27cm
Customize Your Sewing Patterns For A Perfect Fit
Morris, Mary, 1940-
New York, N.Y. : Lark Books, c2001. 144 p. : ill. (some col.)
; 26 cm.
The Cutters' Practical Guide To The Cutting And Making All
Kinds Of Trousers, Breeches & Knickers : To Which Is Added Chapters Dealing
With The Cutting And Making Of Highland Kilts, Leggings, Gaiters, Etc.
Vincent, W. D. F. (William D. F.), 1860-1926.
London : John Williamson, [19--?] 1 v. (various pagings) :
ill. ; 28 cm.
The Cutters' Practical Guide To The Cutting And Making Of All
Kinds Of Overcoats : Civilain, Military, Naval, Livery &c.
Vincent, W. D. F. (William D. F.), 1860-1926.
London : J. Williamson Co., [19--?] 1 v. (various pagings) :
ill. ; 28 cm.
The Cutters' Practical Guide To The Cutting And Making Of All
Kinds Of Trousers, Breeches & Knickers, To Which Is Added Chapters Dealing
With The Cutting And Making Of Highland Kilts, Leggings, Gaiters, &c.
Vincent, W. D. F. (William D. F.), 1860-1926.
London : J. Williamson Co., [19--?] 104 p. : ill. ; 29 cm.
Designing Patterns : A Fresh Approach To Pattern Cutting
Campbell, Hilary
Melbourne : Australasian Educa Press, 1985 123p. : ill. ;
32cm
Dress Pattern Designing : The Basic Principles Of Cut And Fit
Bray, Natalie
London : Granada, 1981 132p. : ill. ; 28cm
Dress Pattern Designing : The Basic Principles Of Cut And Fit
Bray, Natalie
London : Collins, 1986 176p. : ill. ; 29cm
Every Sewer's Guide To The Perfect Fit : Customizing Your
Patterns For A Sensational Look
Morris, Mary, 1940-
Asheville, NC : Lark Books, c1997. 144 p. : ill. (some col.)
; 26 cm.
Fashion Design On The Stand
Cloake, Dawn.
London : Batsford, 1996. 96 p. : col. ill. ; 30 cm.
These do not however create an historical shape, especially pre-hourglass
shapes of the 19thC where you have a body form so markedly different from
the modern.
I would recommend them though as a starting point to creating your own
patterns because they do guide you through measuring and many basic
techniques of construction, and you could then use that understanding to
cretae flat patterns for fitting over various historical forms.
The other option is to get out Period Costume for Stage and Screen by Jean
Hunnisett. It's probably the closest to what you want.
Michaela de Bruce
http://costumes.glittersweet.com
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