Though the lie-down-to-fit method works beautifully for full or firm busts, especially on average-to-large sizes, there's another technique that seems to work well for smaller (or in my case, NOT firm) busts. Instead of laying down for the final fitting around the bust, have the person you're fitting lean over so that their ribcage is parallel to the ground. The bust will point straight down. This pose will make it possible to get a much tighter underbust & lower bust fit than lying down, which is absolutely essential for small or not-firm busts. However, this technique will result in a high bust, so it may not be the solution for this particular situation!

Given the time period, you have another option that you may not have considered. A good number of illustrations of the time show women wearing supportive gowns that lace up the front, but don't actually lace all the way shut; there's a gap between ~1.5 and ~5 inches. The wider gaps do have the effect of pushing the breasts together, and at least on me, it produces rather dramatic cleavage, unlike my other up-but-not-together supportive dresses, all of which lace fully shut. (It also has the advantage of being adjustable for someone with a yo-yo dieting problem!)

When worn under a V-necked dress, the laced-up gap would be concealed with a piece; a decorated piece would give the exact same look as in the Elizabeth Woodville painting.

-E House

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