I used their patterns a lot, when I was first starting out in the SCA, but
that was many (mumblety) years ago, so I've forgotten some of the specifics.
I settled into 16th century England rather firmly after that, although in
the last few years, I've been dabbling with Early Medieval stuff.
As it turns out, my very first SCA garb was made using the MM cotehardie
pattern.  Sleeves fit okay, from what I recall.  I had serious problems with
the neckline, which was sort of scooped.  The first time I put the dress on,
the neckline widened itself into sort of a boat shape, and the whole gown
dropped to the floor.  We had to make all kinds of weird tucks and
adjustments for it to be usable, and even then, I still had to adhere it to
my bra straps (used woven tape and snaps).  Now, granted, we were
inexperienced and the fabric was cotton, but even so....
I also, over the years of use, had issues with their sizing.  It always
seemed to me that the larger the size you were using, the longer they made
the damned things.  My ItalianRen gown had a skirt more than 18" longer than
necessary.
I did make at least one or two of the surcoats from the same MM pattern.
The biggest issue I remember with those is that the scoops/open areas on the
sides were waaaay too large, and a bit low, and had the very unfortunate
habit of emphasizing my least favorite part of my body (tummy).
I never had the problem with their pattern instructions that some people
have, and I did like their research--at the time, they were quite the thing,
this being pre-internet, and pre-most of the wonderful stuff that's come out
since.  And I did like the variety of styles and patterns available,
although I despised the practice of printing one view right on top of
another's pattern pieces (within the same packet), which meant if you wanted
to make more than one style from the same envelope, you were stuck copying
your pieces or something.  So it's a mixed bag.....If I were you, and
thinking of using the pattern, I'd use it with caution, but not completely
discount it.  Watch for length, fitting, reinforce neckline edges, consider
lining it at least to one's hips, etc.
There are other patterns out there, I believe, although I haven't used them
(I've got a copy of the Simplicity one, somewhere), and there are a lot of
websites with wonderful research done on these styles, so if I were doing my
first one fitted gown today, I'd probably avoid the patterns altogether, and
use one of the fitting methods (Robin's or Tasha's, or some of the other
options I've seen and bookmarked, and of course can't remember right now
when it would be very helpful and cool if I could...sigh)
--Sue, off in search of more memory-enhancing coffee ;o)
----- Original Message -----
From: "MaggiRos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 1:27 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Medieval Miscellanea #21


> It's the 14th & 15th century cotehardies & "sideless
> surcoates" one. All I want to create is the blue dress
> from June in the Duke of Berry's book of hours. I've
> been 16th century for so long, I hardly know where to
> begin with a cotehardie. I expect to look frumpy and
> middle-aged in any case. Just curious how the pattern
> works, how true to size it might be, how accurate to
> period, and so on. Being MM, I don't expect much from
> the directions.
>
> I presume that anyone with either rapturously fond or
> rabidly contrary opinions would know the pattern both
> by name and number. :-)


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