> Are cartridge pleats and organ pleats the same thing? That's what Janet
> Arnold says in PoF, and I'm inclined to believe her.

Can o' worms!

Cartridge pleating seems to have become synonymous with overhanding. Yet you
can overhand almost any kind of pleat to reduce bulk at the waist. I usually
overhand pleats that overlap so I don't wind up with 8 layers of fabric in
my waist! These most certainly are not cartridge pleats. It should refer
only to those pleats padded and overhanded so as to look like a row of
cartridges.
Otherwise it could mean nearly any kind of pleat under the sun and be of no
help whatsoever when used to describe a garment. It also leads to cross
purposes when giving instructions for how to assemble a garment.

The term is also a very recent one, it's seen in the 1920s and not much
earlier. I've also been lead to believe that gauging was the 19thC term but
I can only find that to refer to the method of drawing of the gathers to be
overhanded.

> I can only find box pleats, knife pleats and the likes! No "open" pleats.

That's all I can find. Well actually pleats and reverse pleats usually. And
that is about as specific as it gets;) I have a feeling it was mostly a case
of "make this fit the neatest way how."

Michaela
http://glittersweet.com



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