My guess, and I'm no expert, the "red" with all the pleating is the
back of the skirt seen in shadow, while the white/gray triangle above
the red is the interior of an open robe. When I drape my open robe
over the drum I get a bit of squnch back there that looks like pooling
water instead of rayed pleats. Admittedly, I'm looking at a 6x9" color
photo, not the real portrait.

If you look at the bottom of the hanging sleeve on the viewer's left you
can see the red which is also visible under the left arm, this is what's
on the "back" of the sleeve. The same red is visible on the right of the
bodice, just behind the pearls, and it's visible as a red overskirt in the
space under her arms.
Dawn

Funny, I see this same red as the shadow of the sleeve, robe, etc, not as a
second skirt.  I needed another reason to go back to the UK!
Dawn, arent you going soon?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
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