Comparing to normal dress size may actually be closer to "right" currently, since garment makers seem ot be making their clothing bigger and bigger for a given size. Clothing that would have been a 10 when I was younger is now a 6 or even a 4. Patty
________________________________ From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] on behalf of Lauren Walker Sent: Tue 2/6/2007 3:58 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease Thanks to all. Luckily this thing has a very full skirt, it's only fitted above the waist, so I only have two measurements to really worry about. What I found confusing in the past was that the measurements listed on the back would suggest that I needed the pattern to be about two sizes bigger than my normal dress size, and then I'd get the pattern cut and it would turn out to be about two sizes too big. One of the reasons I thought the historical costume list would be a place to inquire, I must confess, is that doing 18th C clothes had changed my whole notion of what ease should do. The 18th century stuff actually fits better and allows a better range of motion if it is quite closely fitted -- my modern notion of ease in the shoulders and arms actually makes a gown more constricting. It's like I get hung up in the extra fabric. Where if the armscye is very close to both the arm and the body, the sleeve somehow moves with me. And I'm not using all that much ease in the circumference for breathing, what with the stays and all -- most of my expansion seems to be upward instead. Ease is one of those things that goes with modern, flat, cut- and-construction methods, stretchy fabrics, soft underpinnings, and mass-production sizes. Until I made 18th century garments I would never have believed that sometimes a closer fit is actually better. The thing I want to make is actually a 50s retro style that seems to be back with a vengeance lately -- a halter-top dress with a wide waistband running from below the bust to the real waist, and then a full skirt. Sort of like Marilyn Monroe in the subway steam vent scene. So I figure I need a close fit on the halter top to remain decent. Which probably means NOT buying the size 18 pattern, even though the back measurements think I should. Lauren Lauren M. Walker [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Feb 6, 2007, at 3:23 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > In a message dated 2/6/2007 3:18:51 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, > [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > > There's often a chart on the envelope with real > measurements for bust and hips, which is useful in determining which > size to cut. I still almost always have to take two inches off the > sides > for something that is "fitted". It's worse on some patterns than on > others, I guess it depends on who drafts them. > > > > > And, let's face it--some people don't allow enough ease in their > clothes! > As I remember, rib cage ease is 4-6 inches--that's to allow for > you to > breathe. And one's thighs do spread when one sits, so that hip > ease that seems too > much standing might be needed when seated. > > The different companies always did use a slightly different body > style/type > and ease, even given the same measurements for sizes. > > Best strategy is still, I think, to buy closest to your bust size, > as it is > easier to alter hips and waist. > > Ann Wass > _______________________________________________ > h-costume mailing list > [email protected] > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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