I think we're a similar size & height, so some of the layouts that I
use might help:
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/4-gore1.gif
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/4-gore2.gif
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/4-gore3.gif
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/4-gore4.gif
http://www.formfunction.org/temp/4-gore5.gif
Sorry for the poor image quality; my scanner just did not want to see
the grid! These are basically to scale, give or take about an inch,
but should not be scaled up exactly or used as patterns. The last is
(obviously) not a 4-panel, but I threw it in anyway; it's a mid-late
15thC it's-not-a-princess-seam gown.
(SL-sleeve, SLG=sleeve gore, BG=back gore, SG=side gore, FS=front
gore; I assumed 30" fabric width for each. 60" garment length is
conveniently top-of-the-shoes for me at ~5'10.")
All of these are based on draped patterns rather than commercial ones,
but they all take under 4 yds of fabric. When (as is usually the
case) the gores have one on-grain edge and one bias edge, the on-grain
edge should go towards the front. Where not marked otherwise, the top
edge is the fold edge.
I'm too lazy to hunt the diagrams up now, but when you have fabric
twice your desired length or a tad more, you might want to try folding
the fabric widthwise rather than lengthwise; you can get a lot more
out of it that way.
-E "cut your cote to fit your cloth" House
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