On Sun, 06 May 2007 01:11:52 +0200, Robin Netherton
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

This is one of those times. I'm talking with another researcher who's
working with a text reference to embroidery. One possible interpretation
of the reference would be that it describes embroidery that appears on
both the inside and outside of the fabric. To me, that sounds like
something on the line of blackwork, designed to be neat and finished
looking on both the right and "wrong" side, and thus suited to things like cuff and collar edges that might be turned out.


It sounds like you are describing darning stitch or weaveseam.
An example of weaveseam embroidery front;
http://www.bayrose.org/wkneedle/Articles/images/vines05.jpg
Back;
http://www.bayrose.org/wkneedle/Articles/images/backside.jpg

For extant examples in books ;
*Traditional Icelandic embroidery, Elsa E. Gudjonson
*Att datera textiler, Margareta Nockert & Göran Possnert (mention of a
13th C norwegian weaveseam embroidery as oldest extant in Norway.Also of a
swedish extant weaveseam embroidery dated between 1320 and 1440. Another
norwegian example is dated between 1440 and 1620).
*Embroideries and samplers from Islamic egypt, marianne Ellis
*Medeltida vävnader och broderier i Sverige, Agnes Brandting and Andreas
Lindholm
*Prydnadssömmar under medeltiden, Anne marie Franzén
*Embroiderers, medieval craftsmen. Kay Staniland (p.63, german 15th C towel shown
pattern front and the reverse pattern on the back).

If you need relevant sections translated, let me know.

There are examples of illustrations which shows what might either be
weaveseam embroidery or possibly a woven pattern from the early 15thC.

The stitch was quite popular long before then and there are more than
enough extant examples from the 13th C and onwards.
Gunvor

-
"Jeg har sagt ja og nei og DA får du lov"
Anders (nesten 4 år)
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