"Are there two separate gowns here or is the under one "faked"? If they are 
separate, you probably won't have to worry much about the boning showing on the 
outer gown."

There are two separate gowns, the undergown is made from a lace - actually 
embroidered tulle, so I don't bother about that, the lace hides everything. 
It's just the taffeta, we tried it on and the bodice wasn't smooth at all. 
Well, it wasn't pressed or anything yet, but it was clear to me it will need 
some "smoothing" process. The picture comes from www.rivendellbridal.com and 
all the gowns there are this fantasy style dresses, with long sleeves and 
skirts etc., actually no corset-style dresses. But all the bodices are nicely 
smooth and that's just because there's bones underneath, so I thought I might 
be needing something like that.

Zuzana

Saragrace Knauf <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Are there two separate gowns here or 
is the under one "faked"?  If they are separate, you probably won't have to 
worry much about the boning showing on the outer gown.

Are you sure you actually need boning in the dress itself?  Have you considered 
an actual corset or under bodice, (like a corset without boning)? The latter 
will give your friend a more rounded/mounded breast shape.  Both would take the 
stress off the gown.

Either way, you could incase the boning in channels made in a firm fabric like 
coutil then flat line that with lining and sew it to the outer material like 
you would any other lining. You'd probably see the ribs the least that way.  

Sg



  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Zuzana Kraemerova 
  To: h-costume 
  Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 11:42 AM
  Subject: [h-cost] boning question


  Hi,

  I've got a question about boning. I'm doing this dress with a few 
adjustments, I've drawn them into the picture: 

  http://www.intelligenzbestien.wz.cz/images/Berethdesign.jpg 

  The bodice and the skirt are separately cut, the bodice also has a number of 
seams, as my friend for whom I'm doing this dress has a large bust and a small 
waist. The skirt has a train and is draped in the back. It's made from a 
lightweight taffeta, so all wrinkles are pretty well visible:-( So I thought 
about boning. I don't want it to be visible (a corset-top dress is really not 
my goal), so I'll attach it to the lining. 

  My first question is, what lining fabric would you use for that purpose? A 
regular, thin acetate/polyester lining fabric??  Would the bones tear out? 
Would they be visible on the bodice, if the lining would be so thin? I'm going 
to use spiral steel bones, by the way. I think the best way is to attach them 
via bias stripes. I heard of a method of attaching a flannel fabric between the 
top fabric and the lining. Any experiences in that?  I've ordered  "Bridal 
couture" by Susan Khalje at amazon.com, this book is supposed to tell something 
about boning, but alas, I think it will come too late as I'm from Europe. 

  The second question is, how long should the bones be? I think at the back it 
is sufficient to have them in the lower half of the bodice, but I'm not sure 
about the front - usually in pattern diagrams I see boning taht goes not higher 
than the bust, but I've never actually tried that and I'm not sure whether the 
ends will be visible or not. And, as I said, my friend has a large bust, which 
might affect this. It doesn't need support, as she'll be going to have a bra. 

  Any suggestions? I'll be thankful to hear of any experience or advise. Many 
thanks,

  Zuzana

  P.S.: I know this has nothing to do with historical costumes, but I just 
thought some of you might be also doing bridal or evening wear, or just LOTR 
inspired costumes and might know something on the subject.

         
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