Penny Ladnier wrote:
I have an 1894 textile definition and wanted to know is this it classified as a
particular weave or just a fabric.
I'm not sure what this question means.
Definition:
Clay Worsted: A variety of flat-twilled worsted woven with a twill similar to that of serge, the diagonal lines lying flat on the surface and barely perceptible. On account of the warp and weft being slackly twisted the cloth does not take a gloss as in the case of the ordinary hard-twisted worsteds.
Let's pick this apart.
"Flat-twilled" is the weave. Fiber content would most likely be wool.
"Slackly worsted" describes the preparation and spinning technique used
to make the threads/yarns.
Therefore, there is a specific weave associated with clay worsted, but
clay worsted is a type of fabric. A bit more searching found the
following reference to clay worsted:
1923 "Woolen Materials and Tailored Plackets" Woman's Institute of
Domestic Arts & Sciences, by Mary Brooks Picken
<http://vintagesewing.info/1920s/23-wmtp/wmtp-01.html#table>
"Clay Worsted: Soft twilled fabric similar to serge. Used for dresses
and suits."
andy
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