These are some of the most amazing gowns ever conceived and made. They are  
usually white...but sheer with some color [or not] underneath so they appear  
shimmery pastels. I've also seen actual pastel colored ones. Tucks,  lace 
inserts, applique, embroidery....any one, any combo or all of the above can  
happen. 
I remember one at the Belle Epoch exhibit years ago at the Met Museum that  
had viewers regularly tripping the security alarm as they inched closer and  
closer to see the hand applique work on it. It was breathtaking! A simple gown  
of the fashionable high  waisted column-with-poofy-draped-bodice silhouette in 
very very fine  white linen over a blond coffee colored foundation. The 
entire thing had  scrolling vines and leaves all over it in applique of the 
same 
linen... so there  were two layers there [the colored foundation really helped 
show off the  applique]...hand stitched on with Turkey Work...y'know that 
technique you  usually see on hems where you pull the sewing thread tight 
enough to 
make  little holes where each stitch is. The stems of the applique were very  
narrow....like almost 1/16th of an inch! The long slender leaves along the  
swirling stems had a center vein and some branching from it done in stem  
stitch. The gown was completely covered in this delicate, painstaking work. It  
was 
beautifully accessorized with a huge black hat with white feathers, black  
high button shoes, black gloves and black parasol.
So you can make a "simple" one out of a single outrageously  beautiful [and 
no doubt expensive] fabric. The way to help it not look like a  wedding dress 
is with colored or black accessories



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