-----Original Message-----
From: Wanda Pease [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 7:31 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe


Blink, Blink!  Hmmm.  I see I wasn't as plain about this book as I should
have been if you aren't already familiar.  This book was written by a
tailor, Juan Alcega, who worked in the 1580's in Spain.  He produced the
Manual to help young tailor's with their art.

If you are thinking full sized patterns of the present Butterick  type (I
think he invented the present type of patterns we buy) this isn't for you.
These are the pattern pieces laid out on various period widths of fabric
with the fairly confusing directions (nowhere near as bad as present
instructions, which I can't follow to save my life :-).  Definitely good to
have help understanding.

Juan Alcega was a real tailor who lived and worked in Spain.  The pattern's
I have blown up to size for my costuming have worked perfectly, once I
understood how they were put together.  The ones in the actual book and it's
translation/re-drawing by Mrs. Ruth Bean are to scale.  This means I can
decide that a "barra" is 36" (give or take a bit it was) and the Scholar
Robe fits a man 5'10" perfectly.  It also looks exactly like the paintings.

A quick way of seeing what I'm talking about is to look at the Janet Arnold:
the Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women: 1560-1620.  In the
first few pages you will see one of these patterns and the illustration of a
man wearing that robe.  The entire book is patterns of that type.  Certainly
you can make one of the Spanish middle class outer garments from these.
They aren't court garments, nor are they "underwear" other than a
farthingale and possibly a chemise (I have to look at my tattered copy of a
the original I made so I could put markings on the patterns).  No ruffs, no
corsets.  A tailor wouldn't be making these.

Regina Romsey

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Sharon Collier
> Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 11:53 AM
> To: 'Historical Costume'
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] looking for scan of Alcega Scholar robe
>
>
> Is this 16th century? If so, I'd love to have one.
> Sharon Collier
>

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