During the 19th and early 20th century dozens of pattern-making "systems" were invented. They fall into a number of different categories.
One category was drafting to English/inch measurements or in Europe, to metric measurements. The "Keystone" system falls into this category. Robb Shep and Fred Struthers, at http://www.rlshep.com/, have reprinted a number of books containing patterns to be drafted to English measurements. Another category was apportioning scales. These were sets of rulers with units specific to that system--not English or metric units. We have reprinted four books that use apportioning scales; our website is www.lavoltapress.com. Apportioning scales are described and pictured in the FAQ for the site. A third category was slopers that could be traced off to different sizes. Then patterns were developed using flat pattern design methods. Cardboard slopers were called charts. These have lines and perforations for each pattern piece that enable it to be traced off to the chosen size. A variant was a sloper with pattern pieces made of strips of metal, with screws that enable them to be adjusted to different sizes. The best known of these in the US was the McDowell Garment Drafting System. I do not know of anyone who has reprinted charts or reproduced the metal systems, but they are often sold on the US eBay site, www.eBay.com. Huge leg-of-mutton sleeves can be very flattering, they make the waist look small. Your actual shoulders are lost in them anyway. Fran Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming http://www.lavoltapress.com Deredere Galbraith wrote: > I am studying the Danckaerts system to draw patterns and my teacher > asked me to make a dress from the time she invented the method. > She and her husband created the system in 1895. > I never made anything from this period before. > > I found a book The "keystone" jacket and dress cutter > an 1895 guide to womans tailoring. > http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51S7Q2XQNNL.jpg > > Has anyone experience with this book? > > Are there any other books that are interesting for this time? > I have the cut of women's clothes > victorian and edwardian fashions from "la mode illustree" > > I don't think those balloon shaped sleeves will look very well on me :-\ . > I have brought shoulders from myself... _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
