I don't actually understand what do you mean by the front not matching seams,
as on the sleeve, there should only be one seam just in the middle of the
armhole and one in the back.
The seams in the back are not meant to match, most drafting methods produce
bodice and sleeve pattern's seams independent of each other. So it's quite
common for tailors that these seams don't match. In my patternmaking course
they even didn't make the front (or underarm) seams to match, so that we could
gather the sleeve's head just as we wanted and weren't limited by matching of
any seams.
More modern patternmaking methods, however, produce matching seams. The
Rundschau patternmaking system I use has a matching underarm seam.
The Burda patterns I think have both seams matching.
You can always adjust the pattern so that the back seams match. You just have
to guess right how much ease you'd need for the sleeve to sew into the armhole.
It depends on the distance from the top to the seam and the fabric itself (how
easy it would gather without making ugly bulks). The further from the sleeve
top the seam is, the more ease you should add. Note that the whole back part
should be roughly 3cm wider than the same part of the armhole - and the
gathering should be biggest at the top and fade out going to the bottom. I
suggest to stop gathering about 6-7 cm from the underarm seam.
(I admit my pattern has the underarm seam slightly pushed to the front, which
makes the whole back part larger, so in other patterns where the undearm seam
is just in the middle, the numbers I said might be slightly smaller.)
Zuzana
Zuzana
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