In a message dated 6/6/2008 3:27:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
2 piece, vertically **************** A shape that evolved obviously to accommodate the natural curve of the arm when at rest by one's side. For centuries the outside seam falls at the shortest part of that arch: from where your arm meets your chest down to the mid point of where your arm "folds" on itself when you bend your elbow to the wrist bone where the metacarpal bone for you thumb attaches. The longer outside seam usually runs from a little higher than where your arm attaches to your torso in back, at the shoulder blade, across the bony part of the elbow to the protruding bone of the wrist. Matching the seams on the bodice was not really a concern. The way one's arm hangs was the deciding factor. It's interesting how the earlier versions....all the way to the 19th century.... are two identical curved pieces, the difference being the top piece had a sleeve head and the under sleeve piece is scooped out to eliminate fabric under the arm. Otherwise, it's the same curved piece. Indeed sometimes the above the elbow part of the sleeve in the back is a straight seam. It could be cut on the fold [and is sometimes] without a seam at all until after the elbow. The shorter inside curve usually is a curve from the shoulder to the wrist. Still even later, like the late 19th century, especially on men's coats, the under sleeve piece becomes narrower than the top piece, nudging both seams to the underside of the sleeve. **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002) _______________________________________________ h-costume mailing list [email protected] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
