At 11:49 15/11/2008, you wrote:
Hi,
I'm about to do a short version of houppelande or burgundian-style
men's doublet, however you call it. The style seen on this picture:
http://www.virtue.to/articles/images/1468_claricedegasconne.jpg
My question is, are the pleats sewn fixed together or are they just
folded into the waistband?
I think they must be fixed somehow because the pleats are always so
regular, but I'm absolutely unable to figure out where would be the
fastening and how exactly would it work.
In this picture, it looks as the fastening was in the back, but it's
very unclear to see.
http://img78.imageshack.us/img78/5435/img7348wr5.jpg
I've searched some books on this topic but I never found a
satisfying answer. Adrien Harmand talks about fixing the pleats, but
as my French is so bad, I didn't figure out whether she said
something about the fastening.
http://www.florentine-persona.com/Reviews/review_birbari.html
In this book there is a picture of a man lying on the ground, with
his "houpplande", for want of a better description, lying open under
him. It is clear that the pleats are stitched to a band which is at
the waist, and which, in my opinion, appears to have no fastening.
The belt worn over such a garment would probably be sufficient to
hold it fastened.
However, it could be hooked closed, or tied with points. Although the
book contains Italian pictures only, the garments are very similar,
and I have used the internal belt system satisfactorily on them for
Northern European clothing. I have not seen anything that fastened at
the back, and I wonder if your picture is showing a seam, decorated
with ?braid? rather than an opening?
Suzi
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