> I'm about to do a short version of houppelande or burgundian-style men's 
doublet, however you call it. 
> The style seen on this picture:
> http://www.virtue.to/articles/images/1468_claricedegasconne.jpg
> 
> My question is, are the pleats sewn fixed together or are they just 
folded into the waistband? 

I've seen pictures that argue in both directions: some where the short 
houppelande is falling free from the shoulders with no pleats, and others 
where the pleats are held tight to the waist while the belt is much lower 
on the hips, and still others where the pleats aren't as neatly regular as 
in your picture, so they could just be held by the belt. I've got PDFs of 
class handouts I've done for men's burgundian fashion - I wanted to clean 
them up before posting them online, but if you e-mail me privately I'm 
happy to send the current drafts to you. (They're pretty long, but very 
picture-heavy :-))
        -sunny
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