I think it has just fallen into a pleat because of the way he has hiked the tunic up into his belt, and the fact that the trim looks to be stiffer than the main fabric, so it folds rather than gathering or rippling. It might also have a fold in the trim from how he has kept it in the cupboard!

The standard pattern for an early medieval tunic or dress (exactly the same except for length) is a four-gore t-tunic, like the "Nockert Type 1" on Marc Carlson's pages http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/tunics.html (be warned, some of the links on these pages no longer work). When you make a centre-split tunic, you just miss out the front and back gores. And it's really hard to make the split hang straight. You need the side gores for movement, but when he stands still, the centre either crosses or hangs open. Tweaking it with the belt is the only option, and if the front goes right, the sides will go wrong.

Jean

Saragrace Knauf wrote:
Hmm, I can see what you are saying.  You'd have to "train the gore" to lie like 
that right?  I mean when I put a gore in it usually doesn't fold up on itself like that.  
This  looks like it comes to a point on the outside and the underlying fabric is tucked 
back underneath it like a pleat almost creating a facing for the slit/point.  Now, on the 
other hand, I recently draped some wool where it did just this.

The only reason I am pushing the point, is I like the look but am suspicious of 
the authenticity of the way it is made/looks.

Sg
From: [email protected]
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 20:07:21 +0000
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What period/country etc is this tunic?

That wouldnt be a 'kick pleat'. The tunic probably has a gore(s) set into the side seam. When it's hanging down, it can give the appearanced of a pleat. Karen
Seamstrix


-- Saragrace Knauf <[email protected]> wrote:








Ah ha!  That was what I thought - thank you.  One of the details I am interested in is 
the side "kick pleat"

The baggy trousers and boots might imply the wearer is aiming for Russ Viking, but a Russ tunic would have wide skirts rather than a split.
http://tinyurl.com/cjb8dt


Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 16:33:15 +0000
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] What period/country etc is this tunic?

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