Oh thank you!  That is very helpful - both the link to Marc's pages and the 
ifurther information on construction.  I am not sure I understand this sentence:

>When you make a centre-split tunic, you just miss out the front and back 
>gores. <

Thank you for the pointers!

> Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 21:38:00 +0000
> From: [email protected]
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gore training: was: What period/country etc is this 
> tunic?
> 
> I think it has just fallen into a pleat because of the way he has hiked 
> the tunic up into his belt, and the fact that the trim looks to be 
> stiffer than the main fabric, so it folds rather than gathering or 
> rippling.  It might also have a fold in the trim from how he has kept it 
> in the cupboard!
> 
> The standard pattern for an early medieval tunic or dress (exactly the 
> same except for length) is a four-gore t-tunic, like the "Nockert Type 
> 1" on Marc Carlson's pages 
> http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/tunics.html (be 
> warned, some of the links on these pages no longer work).  When you make 
> a centre-split tunic, you just miss out the front and back gores.  And 
> it's really hard to make the split hang straight.  You need the side 
> gores for movement, but when he stands still, the centre either crosses 
> or hangs open.  Tweaking it with the belt is the only option, and if the 
> front goes right, the sides will go wrong.
> 
> Jean
> 
> Saragrace Knauf wrote:
> > Hmm, I can see what you are saying.  You'd have to "train the gore" to lie 
> > like that right?  I mean when I put a gore in it usually doesn't fold up on 
> > itself like that.  This  looks like it comes to a point on the outside and 
> > the underlying fabric is tucked back underneath it like a pleat almost 
> > creating a facing for the slit/point.  Now, on the other hand, I recently 
> > draped some wool where it did just this.
> >
> > The only reason I am pushing the point, is I like the look but am 
> > suspicious of the authenticity of the way it is made/looks.
> >
> > Sg 
> >
> >   
> >> From: [email protected]
> >> Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 20:07:21 +0000
> >> To: [email protected]
> >> Subject: Re: [h-cost] What period/country etc is this tunic?
> >>
> >> That wouldnt be a 'kick pleat'. The tunic probably has a gore(s) set into 
> >> the side seam. When it's hanging down, it can give the appearanced of a 
> >> pleat. 
> >>  
> >> Karen
> >> Seamstrix
> >>
> >>
> >> -- Saragrace Knauf <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Ah ha!  That was what I thought - thank you.  One of the details I am 
> >> interested in is the side "kick pleat"
> >>
> >>     
> >>> The baggy trousers and boots might imply 
> >>> the wearer is aiming for Russ Viking, but a Russ tunic would have wide 
> >>> skirts rather than a split.
> >>>       
> >> http://tinyurl.com/cjb8dt
> >>
> >>
> >>     
> >>> Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 16:33:15 +0000
> >>> From: [email protected]
> >>> To: [email protected]
> >>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] What period/country etc is this tunic?
> >>>
> >>>       
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