The recent discussion of academic hoods has reminded me of something
that has intrigued me for a long time. One evening, I was privileged to
sit for a couple of hours next to my tutor; as it was a formal
university occasion, he was wearing his gown, which showed that he held
the D.Phil of Oxford University. I was quite entranced by the complex
embroidery on the sleeve next to me, and would love to have examined it
closely, but never was able to find out anything about it.
All I can remember now is that it was a very complex design, and at
least part of it was a sort of smocking done over many fine gathers. It
was all on the part of the sleeve which lays over the upper arm, and on
the outer side, (on the opposite side to where you would find the sleeve
seam on a modern shirt). And I haven't even been able to find a picture
on the web to show you what I mean.
Does anyone know anything about this kind of decoration? Is it based on
an old tradition? How far back is such embroidery found, (somehow it
looked Victorian)? Does the pattern vary with the university, or the
type of degree, or the individual's preference? Since none of the
previous messages, nor the 'Tailor and Pattern Cutter' pages, mention
any embroidery or sleeve decoration - perhaps it is unique to Oxford?
Linda Walton, (in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.).
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