On May 27, 2009, at 4:30 PM, Sagittarius Uisce Beatha wrote:

From my understanding, it's constructed like a french hood except the base
doesn't cover the ears but sits more like a headband with the crescent
sitting on top.
http://images2.fanpop.com/images/photos/2700000/Elizabeth-I-of- England-The-Darnley-Portrait-kings-and-queens-2710388-800-1170.jpg, If you look in that picture of QEI, you'll see that there's also still a veil attached as well. As for the very back, I couldn't say for sure if there is a bag there or not. Or if there is a coif made to fit under such a small hood. From the looks of it, you still have the flat piece that the crescent sits on, but the crescent basically takes it over. It's really hard to say for sure as the bouffant hair covers the detail of the base.

I don't think this is any variety of French hood at all, but rather a caul or cap made of a circle gathered to a band. You can find diagrams and instructions on the top half of this page:
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/headwear/caulmake.html

I should amend my statement in my previous email about cauls not being made of linen--that was in reference to upper-class cauls. Clearly lower-class women did wear white linen cauls, as can be seen in many Flemish genre paintings.

Melanie Schuessler
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