On Jul 5, 2009, at 6:14 PM, Kimiko Small wrote:

I know that image... it is Henri III in a color cartoon of a tapestry by Antoine Caron, c.1580. The roll shown in the drawing is actually Henri's hair, from what I can tell. It is a black hat matched with his black hair, so maybe that's where the confusion comes in. And he is wearing a ruff, not a falling band/collar.

Good call on recognizing Henri III, but I wonder whether Wilcox wasn't working from this http://www.culture.gouv.fr/Wave/image/joconde/0002/ m503604_87ee1701_p.jpg which the Louvre attributes to Francois Quesnel, 1582-1586. The listing from the joconde database is here:
http://tinyurl.com/r87kfh

This is a new one for me--it does rather look like a hat with a padded band instead of a brim. My apologies to Wilcox in absentia, though I maintain that she's not an entirely trustworthy source based on other images that she's changed in the re-drawing.

I'm still not sure, however, that the women's styles we've been looking at are of this type. Some look puffy as if padded (though see my previous email for a possible explanation revolving around coiled braids and a caul), but they don't have the added height of the crown of the hat that's clearly visible on Henri. Nor do they have the profile of a puffed bit with something of a smaller circumference atop it. It's not impossible--I just think it's unlikely based on what I've seen so far.

Melanie Schuessler
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